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Cornered, Straight Up Variation

Boulder, Colorado United States
finger crack
single pitch
technical
well protected
spring best
traditional climbing
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cornered, Straight Up Variation
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A sharp finger crack climb in Eldorado Canyon that starts easy with a classic lieback before pushing straight up a steep crack to a spacious ledge. This short trad route offers focused technical moves with solid protection and approachable descent."

Cornered, Straight Up Variation

In the heart of Eldorado Canyon State Park, the Cornered, Straight Up Variation on Lower Peanuts offers a compact yet sharply rewarding trad climb that demands focus and finesse. Starting with the approachable lieback of Your Basic Lieback—rated a friendly 5.6—you quickly find your rhythm before traversing toward the bolt belay that marks your entry into the more demanding terrain above. Beyond this point, the route sheds its early gentleness to confront you with a steepening dihedral corner, where solid, sharp fingers get to grip into a crack that tests your control and patience. The crack itself twists and pulls you upward toward a prominent flake; here, the original Cornered route veers left at an undercling, but this variation challenges you to stay straight up, threading a finger crack to the right of the flake with a steady 5.9 difficulty.

From this focused effort, you reach a spacious ramp/ledge that offers respite and a solid two-bolt anchor perched on the upper right side. The descent is straightforward but demands attention: an 80-foot rappel to a secondary bolt belay followed by another 100 feet down to the ground. This climb can be enjoyed as one continuous pitch, delivering a pulse-raising mix of moderate technical climbing and straightforward protection opportunities. The wall itself keeps you engaged, middling the line between sustained finger jams and casual rests across varied holds, making this route suitable for climbers looking to hone their crack skills without committing to extended multi-pitch endurance.

Being in Eldorado Canyon means you share the air with sandstone walls kissed by morning sun and cooled by afternoon breezes; the rock’s texture is gritty yet reliable, showing signs of weathering but maintaining solid integrity for well-placed smaller cams. While the route is short, it delivers an elevated experience where every move feels intentional, and the natural architecture encourages precise footwork and confident hand placements. For climbers traveling through Boulder or passing near the Front Range, this route offers a rewarding detour from the more crowded sport lines in the area.

Preparation is simple but crucial: bring a set of smaller cams to protect the finger cracks, and plan your approach to avoid peak heat hours, as sun exposure grows in the afternoon on this east-facing wall. With just one pitch, it’s also an excellent option for those sneaking in a quality climb during tight schedules or as a warm-up for longer objectives in the park. Your Basic Lieback’s initial section eases you in before the finger crack variation sharpens the climb’s teeth.

In essence, Cornered, Straight Up Variation is a concise, technically interesting route that balances a friendly introduction with a taste of steeper, more precise crack climbing. It’s a hidden opportunity in one of Colorado’s premier climbing spots, offering manageable commitment with authentic Eldo character.

Climber Safety

Watch for sections with friable rock just above the initial bolt anchor; while the main finger crack is solid, the approach through the rotten rock segment requires careful moves. Also, be certain your anchors and rappel setups are double-checked—descents here involve multiple ropes and longer rappels over ledges.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach early to avoid intense afternoon sun on the east-facing wall.

Wear sticky rubber shoes optimized for crack climbing to boost foot jams.

Carry a standard single rack of smaller cams; sizes #0.3 to #1 work best.

Plan for a two-step rappel with an 80-foot descent to the first belay and another 100 feet to the ground.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating fits well with the route’s steep finger crack pitch, which demands precise technique but doesn’t carry excessive pump or runouts. Compared to nearby Eldo classics, this climb represents a solid, focused challenge without the intimidating length of bigger multi-pitch routes. The lieback start offers a gentle warmup, making the grade feel consistent rather than inflated.

Gear Requirements

Bring smaller cams to fit the engaging finger cracks, plus a double bolt sling anchor setup for the two belays. The bolts are well fixed, but adding pro to protect the crack section is essential.

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Tags

finger crack
single pitch
technical
well protected
spring best
traditional climbing