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Corner Solution at Deadwood Wall: A Classic Trad Climb in Woodfords Canyon

South Lake Tahoe, California United States
crack climbing
chimney
single pitch
trad gear
east facing
granite slab
small cams
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Corner Solution
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Corner Solution commands attention for trad climbers willing to navigate a chimney and hand crack system set against the stark granite faces of Deadwood Wall. This single-pitch route balances technical crack climbing with tactical protection along a 120-foot line that rewards careful gear placement and steady movement."

Corner Solution at Deadwood Wall: A Classic Trad Climb in Woodfords Canyon

Corner Solution offers a focused climb for those seeking a single-pitch trad challenge enveloped by the rugged granite of Deadwood Wall. From the base, the approach eases upward over straightforward terrain, guiding you to a lone tree that marks the start of the climb. From here, you step right to engage a chimney system where the real movement begins—cracks invite precise gear placements that test your attention to detail and patience. As you ascend, the rock changes: fingers find purchase in a clean hand crack while subtle, finicky protection demands a practiced eye for small cams and nuts. A low mantle leads to the main corner, where wide hand jams dictate rhythm and stretch. Higher still, a slot with a hand crack beckons you into a narrow passage, challenging balance and focus, before you face a thin, technical section requiring finesse and smooth body positioning. Nearing the top, the line veers right, following a final crack aptly named "Of Course," which rewards persistence with a reaching finish. Beware of loose blocks as you seek the anchors at the summit.

This climb lives in a climbing area etched within Woodfords Canyon, embraced by the Sierra Nevada’s granite walls. The Deadwood Crags provide a dirt-close-to-lake escape that feels remote yet accessible, ideal for climbers aiming to pair quality rock with pleasant approach trails. The moderate 5.9 grade sits squarely where committed beginners push technical skills and established climbers enjoy a straightforward but involved route. Protection calls for a well-organized rack from tiny micro cams (.4") up to moderate sizes (3"), with a focus on careful placements in cracks that can be subtle or irregular. The belay anchors are solid and anchored at the nearby fixed "Off Width Out You" route, doubling as rappel points for descent.

Approach tracks are manageable though steep in spots, requiring about 15-20 minutes from the parking along the Carson Pass Highway. Expect a mix of forested segments interspersed with dry, sun-warmed granite slabs underfoot. The climb’s east-facing wall basks in morning sun, cooling gradually in the afternoon shade—a seasonal window best timed for spring through fall to avoid icy patches or wet conditions that can diminish rock quality and safety. The route is exposed but offers good holds and ledges for resting.

Corner Solution is a contained adventure, perfect for trad climbers craving a classic crack line with tangible movement and solid protection opportunities, wrapped in refreshing alpine surroundings. Whether you're honing crack techniques or exploring California's high country, this climb balances sensory engagement with practical route-finding and rock quality that rarely disappoints.

Climber Safety

Be alert for loose blocks near the top section; clear them cautiously where possible before climbing. The approach has some steep sections where footing can be uneven—take care especially when carrying gear.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Approach takes roughly 15-20 minutes from the roadside parking along Highway 88.

Start climbs early to enjoy shade by midday on this east-facing wall.

Inspect placements carefully near loose blocks, especially close to the top.

Use sticky-soled shoes for improved friction on crack jams and slab approaches.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here feels solid but fair, with the crux occurring in the thin, technical crack and chimney sections where precise body positioning and steady gear placements are vital. This climb can challenge less experienced trad climbers due to protection nuances but is a rewarding line that sits comfortably alongside other moderate Sierra Nevada routes.

Gear Requirements

Carry a trad rack emphasizing small (.4") through medium (up to 3") cams. Protection demands precision, especially on narrow cracks and the chimney sections. The belay anchors share space with fixed gear from the Off Width Out You route.

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Tags

crack climbing
chimney
single pitch
trad gear
east facing
granite slab
small cams