"Cooke Book summons climbers to a classic four-pitch dihedral on Daff Dome, blending crack climbing techniques from finger locks to laybacks. Its summer-soaked granite and multiple start options offer an engaging climb that challenges both technique and strategy."
Cooke Book offers an immersive trad climbing adventure on Daff Dome’s West Face in Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite. This four-pitch route embraces dihedral climbing with a blend of crack techniques—primarily liebacks and finger locks—that test climbers' finesse and endurance. The granite here tells a quiet story of rough edges and smooth jams, with sun warming the rock in the summer afternoons, inviting steady progress and focused moves. From the base, three distinct approaches set the tone: the original 5.9 dihedral featuring a unique and physical slot that leads into sweet jams; a seemingly runout 5.9 face and crack sequence with a solitary bolt; or an easier 5.7 crack with a steep face start. All paths merge at a fixed anchor marked by a rap ring, except the third option, which offers a gear belay on a respectable ledge.
Continuing from this fixed anchor places you into a second pitch that angles left, mixing easy jams with knob-like footholds. A key move involves a 5.8 tension traverse using a substantial handhold and pod to switch cracks, injecting a welcome push of excitement into the climb. For those seeking to bypass this, a twenty-foot rappel or downclimb to the top of the 5.7 crack offers an alternative. The pitch concludes on a generous ledge, perfect for regrouping.
Pitch three invites a return to jam-focused climbing with laybacks up a pristine corner, rated at an approachable 5.9 difficulty aided by a #3 Camalot in the belay. The final pitch combines technical challenges and sustained jamming; navigating a large loose flake before managing a quick 5.10- crux that demands precise placements using small offset stoppers or tiny cams. From this point, the line climbs steadily through solid jams to finish atop the dihedral where views unfold and climbers rest in anticipation or prepare for descent.
Protection throughout the route requires a modest but essential rack: a wide selection of stoppers and cams ranging from small sizes to #3 Camalot. Offsets prove invaluable, particularly on the crux pitch where a black Totem cam or an equivalent is critical for safety. The original 5.9 pitch includes three to four fixed pins and benefits from additional long slings for extended placements. Belay stations feature fixed anchors only on the original 5.9 start, with other belays relying on gear placements.
Cooke Book on Daff Dome stands as a rewarding trad climb that balances technical crackwork with sustained movement, ideal for climbers comfortable with finger jams and diagonal traverses. The route’s summer sunlight, varied pitch options, and natural line make it both a physical challenge and a deeply satisfying ascent within Tuolumne Meadows’ iconic alpine granite setting.
Watch for loose flakes on the final pitch and be cautious with placements around the crux section, as protections rely heavily on smaller gear. Fixed pins on the original pitch are limited and may require thread-the-needle placements; ensure long slings to avoid rope drag or gear failure.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and ensure steady rock temperatures.
Use long slings on the original pitch for better gear positioning and to reduce rope drag.
Prepare for multiple start options; pick one depending on your comfort with runout face climbing versus crack techniques.
Bring a moderate rack with emphasis on small cams and a variety of stoppers to cover all placements.
Bring a full rack with a strong emphasis on stoppers and cams from small sizes up to #3 Camalot. Offsets are crucial, especially for the crux pitch, where a black Totem or a similar size cam provides key protection. The original 5.9 pitch uses three to four fixed pins, so adding several long slings is recommended to extend placements. Note that belays, aside from the original 5.9 start, rely mostly on gear.
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