Controversial takes its place along the left edge of Herman Rock’s rugged north face, a challenge for climbers ready to test their grit on an arresting crack system. This 40-foot trad route is a distilled dose of Joshua Tree's iconic granite climbing—where bold placements meet the raw texture of the desert’s sculpted stone. The climb begins twenty feet to the left of the well-known Herman route, tracing a crack that runs up the left side of an eye-catching flake. This feature challenges your balance and imagination as you ascend, its overhanging presence a daring invitation to push your technique. Above the flake, the geometry eases, allowing hands and feet to regain composure as you reach the summit area. From here, you finish on easier terrain leading to the shared bolted anchors that crown Herman Rock.

The exposure here is real. The crack demands precise gear placements up to 3 inches, requiring confidence in your pro and a calm approach to safety, especially with the runout sections. The bolted anchors provide peace of mind and a straightforward rappel to descend or set up a top-rope. Weather in Joshua Tree can warm quickly, so early morning climbs help avoid the sun beating down on the face. The approach through Comic Book Area is short and direct, but the desert terrain calls for sturdy boots and ample water. With just one pitch, Controversial packs an intense punch—an accessible 5.9 R that both challenges and rewards.

Climbing here balances toughness and technique: the crack’s edges you, the flake demands respect, and the desert sun dictates your schedule. It’s a route for those looking to sharpen trad skills, appreciate granite’s unforgiving texture, and soak in the stark, open sky of Joshua Tree’s wild heart. Prepare well, climb smart, and the route will etch a memorable chapter in your climbing log.