HomeClimbingComplete Crack

Complete Crack Climb at Gold Butte

Telluride, Colorado United States
crack climbing
sport protection
corner crack
single pitch
bolted anchors
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Complete Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Complete Crack offers a thoughtful blend of crack and face climbing in Gold Butte’s Southwest TR area. With solid bolts and varied moves over 60 feet, this 5.8 pitch invites climbers to engage technical skills in a bright, exposed setting."

Complete Crack Climb at Gold Butte

Complete Crack stands as a straightforward yet engaging climb tucked within the rugged beauty of Gold Butte in Colorado’s Southwest TR corridor. Beginning in step with Shaft Crack, this route veers left with a purposeful traverse over a pocket feature that invites deliberate footwork and balance. The climb then settles into an unmistakable corner crack, offering hands-on opportunities to test jamming technique and body positioning on solid rock. Despite its moderate 5.8 rating, Complete Crack keeps climbers attentive with varied moves that break up the rhythm, demanding both finesse and flow. The route spans about 60 feet, culminating just above a large flake that acts as a natural frame to the final moves. Seven bolts line the face, leading safely to the anchors, providing confident protection throughout this single pitch.

The setting around Complete Crack adds to the experience. The high desert environment of Gold Butte delivers wide-open skies and a dry, clean rock surface that rarely lets loose unexpected debris. The approach winds through sparse vegetation under generous sunlight, with enough shade near the base to cool down before starting your climb. Coming prepared with solid climbing shoes that handle friction well and taping for hand protection will enhance your comfort and efficiency on the crack.

For climbers aiming to step up from easier routes or simply enjoy a well-protected sport climb that blends crack climbing with face movement, Complete Crack offers a perfect introduction. Its approachable grade and single-pitch format make it an ideal choice for a morning session or a warm-up on a day devoted to pushing harder lines nearby. The route's compact length encourages focused effort without overwhelming endurance, making logistics straightforward—particularly practical for climbers balancing time and energy in the often-sunny, arid climate unique to this Colorado locale.

Though the bolts guarantee solid protection, maintaining awareness of rock quality is key; occasional flake edges require careful attention to hand placements and weight distribution. The route's exposed position ensures breath-catching views of the surrounding ridgelines and distant peaks, grounding the climb in a vivid connection to Colorado’s outdoor landscape. Climbers will find these elements combine into an experience both gripping and accessible, ideal for those looking to refine their crack climbing under the reliable security of sport protection.

Gold Butte itself offers more than just this single climb. It provides a gateway to exploring varied routes that test balance, strength, and technique across a mix of crack and face styles. Whether you’re visiting for a day or basing a weekend nearby, Complete Crack serves as both a rewarding challenge on its own and a gateway to deeper adventure along the Southwest TR. Prioritize hydration, sun protection, and route beta before setting out, and you’ll find this climb to be a satisfying addition to your Colorado climbing portfolio.

Climber Safety

While bolts offer solid anchors, some flakes along the upper section require cautious hand placements and weight shifts to avoid unexpected movement. Wear climbing shoes with good edging sensitivity and stay alert to sun exposure during warmer months.

Route Details

TypeSport, TR
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the strong afternoon sun common in the area.

Bring finger tape for protection during crack jams.

Check your rope length; this single pitch requires about 60 feet.

Watch for loose flakes near the top and test placements carefully.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:At 5.8, Complete Crack is generally moderate but not without a technical crux during the traverse left onto the corner system. The grade feels accurate, with a consistent challenge that rewards good crack techniques. Compared to other local climbs in Gold Butte, it sits comfortably between beginner-friendly routes and more sustained, harder climbs.

Gear Requirements

The route is well protected by seven bolts leading to anchors, making it a safe choice for sport climbers. Use of a single 60m rope is sufficient for the 60-foot length, and hand taping is useful on the crack sections.

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Tags

crack climbing
sport protection
corner crack
single pitch
bolted anchors