Southwest TR - Scenic Toprope Climbing on Gold Butte's South Face

Aspen, Colorado
toprope
south-facing
scenic views
easy approach
single pitch
hand cracks
moderate grades
Length: 50-70 ft
Type: Toprope
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Southwest TR offers climbers spectacular views of Buttermilk, Red Butte, and the Roaring Fork River valley, paired with an approachable climbing experience. Accessed via well-worn trails and anchored for top-rope, this area invites adventurers of all levels to experience Gold Butte’s classic rock face from a unique vantage point."

Southwest TR - Scenic Toprope Climbing on Gold Butte's South Face

Positioned at just under 8,000 feet elevation in the Gold Butte region near Aspen, Colorado, Southwest TR is a destination that effortlessly blends scenic beauty with steady, accessible climbing. This south-facing crag rewards visitors with sweeping panoramas of Buttermilk and Red Butte—landmarks that define the area’s rugged allure—as well as the distant hum of the Roaring Fork River flowing below.

The climbs here are predominantly top-rope routes, made possible through anchors positioned strategically along the trail that runs over the top of the face. This setup allows climbers to focus on movement and technique without the complications of lead falls or gear placements. The routes themselves are straightforward yet engaging, offering a comfortable entry point for intermediate climbers or those wanting to fine-tune skills in a stellar alpine environment.

Approach options add to the versatility of the experience. Approaching from the Rio Grande side offers a direct visual introduction to the crag, visible from the trail below and impossible to miss. From the Sunnyside Trail, climbers can either opt for a mellow scramble around the easier southern tip of the face or follow the well-maintained trail over the top, which connects seamlessly to the anchor points. The trail conditions are solid, featuring a mix of forested stretches and open rocky terrain that invigorates the senses with each step.

Classic climbs in the area such as Eenie (5.8), Mo's Crack (5.9), and Hero Loop (5.9) have all earned three-star ratings and exemplify the accessible, enjoyable style of the Southwest TR face. These routes provide a great mix of hand and finger cracks, varied holds, and clean rock quality. Their moderate grades make them approachable for less experienced climbers while still satisfying those looking for confident, sustained climbing.

Ideal climbing seasons range broadly given the altitude and latitude, but spring through early fall generally offer the best windows with stable weather and comfortable temperatures. Morning sessions find the face catching early light, while afternoons bring some shading as the sun arcs westward, cooling the rock during warm summer days.

Descending after topping out is straightforward via the trail that leads back down from above the crag. This walk-off route avoids complicated rappels and lets climbers enjoy a moment to soak in the vast Colorado landscape, the bustle of Aspen nearby, and the quiet pulses of the mountain air.

For those planning to visit Southwest TR, the lack of fixed gear on routes means top-rope anchors are key, but climbers should still bring a standard rack including slings and locking carabiners for anchors and personal safety. The rock is sound, but caution during descents and scrambling approaches is advised, especially if conditions are wet or icy.

Southwest TR combines the thrill of climbing with the ease of access and breathtaking alpine views, making it a favorite spot for those who want to push their climbing without complex logistics. Whether you’re coming from the bustling town of Aspen or a nearby trailhead, this crag offers a memorable blend of adventure and practical climbing challenges suited to a wide range of climbers.

Climber Safety

While the approach trails are generally well-maintained, climbers should exercise care when scrambling near the southern tip of the face, especially when wet or icy. Be mindful that anchors are solely trail-placed slings and gear; always double-check knot integrity and anchor security before climbing.

Area Details

TypeToprope
Pitchessingle pitch
Length50-70 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the well-maintained trail over the top for easiest access to anchors.

From the Rio Grande side, the face is visible and hard to miss—use it as a navigation landmark.

Morning climbs catch sun early—ideal for cooler days; afternoons tend to be shaded.

Descent is via an easy walk-off trail—no need for rappels or technical downclimbing.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Southwest TR offers moderate climbing routes ranging primarily from 5.8 to 5.9, providing a comfortable challenge that fits between beginner and intermediate levels. The area’s grades tend to feel honest and consistent without significant sandbagging, suitable for climbers looking to refine technique. Compared to nearby Buttermilk and Red Butte, the climbing is less intense but equally rewarding, perfect for top-rope practice or confident multipitch warm-ups.

Gear Requirements

All climbs on the southwest face of Gold Butte can be top-roped using anchors placed along the trail over the top of the crag; no fixed bolts on routes. Bring slings and locking carabiners to set up top-rope anchors safely.

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Tags

toprope
south-facing
scenic views
easy approach
single pitch
hand cracks
moderate grades