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Coffin Crack: A Technical Trad Challenge in Clear Creek Canyon

Golden, Colorado United States
hand crack
stem box
nut placements
technical gear
single pitch
Clear Creek Canyon
Length: 83 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Coffin Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Coffin Crack is a one-pitch trad climb in Clear Creek Canyon that tests your crack climbing skills and knack for gear placement. With a challenging start beneath the bombay chimney and a secure yet demanding stem box section, this route blends technical moves with a rugged outdoor setting."

Coffin Crack: A Technical Trad Challenge in Clear Creek Canyon

Coffin Crack stands as a gritty, one-pitch trad climb demanding precision and confidence amid Clear Creek Canyon’s rugged backdrop. Beginning on a slab beneath the unmistakable stem box and bombay chimney, the route swiftly tests your gear-placement skills and route-finding instincts. The initial crack section grips with variable protection: expect to thread a generous collection of nuts and TCUs while negotiating an unstable block that holds just enough to keep you honest. Higher up, a hand crack leads to the base of the iconic stem box — a physical, committing move that rewards your calculated efforts. Setting a solid medium nut before engaging the box is crucial, as the climbing demands both steady hands and mental focus. From there, a large nut secures your passage out right to the arete where the rock eases into simpler terrain, letting you push toward the top with more confidence. This ascent isn’t for the novice; proficiency in placing tricky protection is essential to minimize risk on the less secure features.

Located in the popular Sports Wall section of Clear Creek Canyon, the climb offers more than technical challenge — it places you directly into a landscape where weathered granite walls catch afternoon sun and Clear Creek’s distant murmurs energize the atmosphere. Approach trails wind through pine-scented slopes, setting the stage for a climb that balances raw engagement with accessible wilderness. Top roping might be feasible from nearby chains or gear anchors, but most climbers find topping out and belaying from sturdy trees or boulders above to be the most straightforward option.

For those eager to test steady hands and strategic gear placement on a moderately demanding 5.9 crack, Coffin Crack delivers an authentic Clear Creek experience. Prepare with a rack full of nuts and TCUs up to #2 cams, and expect to weigh every placement carefully. This route rewards climbers who come ready to read the rock and commit to well-calculated moves. Clear Creek’s draws for climbers aren’t just about difficulty but immersion in a textured environment where every hold and crack tells a story of endurance and connection.

Climber Safety

The lower crack section includes a block with questionable stability—place protection judiciously and test each piece carefully. Avoid over-reliance on any single placement in this feature and plan your moves with safety in mind.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length83 feet

Local Tips

Master placing small to medium nuts and TCUs before attempting this climb.

Consider approaching early in the day to avoid afternoon heat on the slab.

Top out and belay from sturdy trees or boulders rather than relying on fixed chains.

Bring plenty of tape for hand protection in the crack sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Coffin Crack feels true to grade with a technically demanding crux at the stem box. The route isn't overly stiff but requires focused technique and solid gear placement skills, especially given the less stable block in the lower crack section. It compares to other classic Clear Creek cracks that reward patient climbers familiar with tricky nuts and TCUs.

Gear Requirements

A wide rack of nuts and TCUs is essential, with protection stretching up to a #2 cam. Be prepared to place gear in delicate positions, as the lower block anchoring some pro is suspect and requires caution.

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Tags

hand crack
stem box
nut placements
technical gear
single pitch
Clear Creek Canyon