"The Love Route on Hallett Peak offers a blend of alpine grit and technical trad climbing, winding eight pitches through varied terrain and culminating in a crux traverse beneath a towering roof. Expect steady climbing, exhilarating exposure, and sweeping valley views on this classic RMNP ascent."
The Love Route on Hallett Peak offers a compelling alpine trad climb that blends raw mountain atmosphere with a steady pace of technical challenges. Situated on the lower left side of the second buttress, this eight-pitch route weaves through varied terrain that tests both your footwork and mental focus. From the first pitch’s grassy right-facing dihedral to the thrilling final pitch where the fixed pins guide you beneath a commanding roof, this climb demands attention and rewards with panoramic views of the sweeping valley below.
Your journey begins with a 160-foot pitch of low-angle 5.6 climbing up a grassy dihedral, a gateway into RMNP’s rugged granite. This initial section may feel loose in places, so steady foot placement and alert protection placement set the tone. Following the dihedral, you transition into a loose gully for the next two pitches, ascending approximately 300 feet. Here, you engage with the mountain’s raw edges, negotiating junky rock that challenges you to stay light on your feet and focused on gear.
As you near the white band, a striking geological feature marking this section, the route intensifies. Pitch four maintains a 5.6 grade, moving upward through this steep band with careful precision. Pitch five calls for a traversing right, where sloping ramps at 5.6 to 5.7 reveal technical climbing that demands smooth balance and route-reading skills.
With the shift of the belay to the top of the ramp on pitch six, your eyes soon lock on the route’s crux pitch. This 5.9 segment requires you to negotiate a sharp traverse beneath a wide roof. Fixed pins and some tricky aid-like moves guide you toward generous jugs above, offering brief relief and a chance to glance back at the expansive valley far below — a reminder of the altitude and commitment involved.
The final pitch is a rewarding climb over another easy 5.6 roof to the broad, sloping summit ridge of Hallett Peak. Standing here, the effort crystallizes into an exhilarating sense of accomplishment framed by alpine ridge lines and sky.
Approach access is straightforward, yet the alpine environment commands respect. The climb’s altitude and variable rock quality necessitate solid traditional gear, including a standard rack and extra long slings for the final pitches’ roofs. Expect a moderate hike-in through classic Rocky Mountain terrain, with GPS coordinates available for precise navigation.
Seasonal timing is key. Late summer to early fall offers stable weather and lower risk of sudden storms, while early season ascent might mean loose rock and snow patches. Aim for early starts to maximize daylight and avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in the high country.
Whether you’re making your first alpine trad ascent or adding a storied route to your portfolio, the Love Route delivers not just climbing, but a tangible connection to the wild granite faces of Rocky Mountain National Park. Prepare well, climb smart, and savor the blend of rugged exposure with technical climbs along this iconic line.
Be cautious around loose rock on the lower gully, and practice care with protection placements in sections with fewer secure opportunities. Alpine weather can turn quickly—prepare for sudden storms and always check forecast before heading out.
Start early to avoid afternoon storms common in RMNP summer months.
Carry extra slings and cams in the 0.5 to 2 inch range for safe protection around roofs.
Watch rock quality carefully on loose sections, especially in the low-angle gully pitches.
Approach trail includes some bushwhacking—use GPS coordinates for direct access to the route base.
Bring a standard trad rack with a focus on longer slings to navigate two substantial ledge roofs on the final pitches. Robust placements are available but expect some trickier spots where cautious sling management will pay off.
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