HomeClimbingClear-a-Sill

Clear-a-Sill: Two-Pitch Traditional Gem on Eldorado's West Ridge

Boulder, Colorado United States
trad crack
multi-pitch
crux
moderate
gear-dependent
classic
west-facing
Length: 180 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Clear-a-Sill
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Clear-a-Sill delivers two well-protected pitches on Eldorado Canyon’s iconic West Ridge. Offering varied crack and face moves without requiring offwidth skills, this 5.9 trad climb blends manageable challenges with stunning Colorado rock scenery."

Clear-a-Sill: Two-Pitch Traditional Gem on Eldorado's West Ridge

Clear-a-Sill offers a straightforward yet engaging two-pitch trad climb hidden within the rugged contours of Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge. The route begins just below the familiar belay tree of Verschneidung, setting off on a wide crack that invites steady, confident climbing without demanding offwidth skills. As you ascend, the rock subtly shifts from wider holds to a crease lined with opportunities for solid protection—cams and small wires finding homes in the crack and beneath an overhanging headwall that dares you to commit. A careful balance of moves keeps you on the steep wall, occasionally granting breaths by escaping left onto easier terrain, before settling back into a direct finish toward the belay tree that anchors pitch one.

The second pitch demands a bit more finesse and route-finding. Leaving the tree, the climb angles right, placing gear in good spots while negotiating a punchy crux on a crack that bends outward, pushing climbers to read the rock carefully and trust their placements. The climb then moves left to skirt an overhanging buttress, followed by a tricky bulge leading to a slab that relaxes as you near the rappel station at the Verschneidung tree. Here, caution is warranted; the anchors have seen better days, and it’s worth noting alternatives for descent—traversing left to the cable anchor and down via bolts above Washington Irving is safer and more reliable.

Clear-a-Sill is a solid choice for climbers looking to stretch their 5.9 skills with traditional gear on well-textured granite that keeps you focused without overwhelming. The climb’s location on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge places you in a rugged setting with forested trails, towering rock walls, and sweeping views of Colorado’s dramatic landscape. The approach is manageable and well-trodden, balancing wilderness immersion with accessibility.

Gear-wise, a standard rack suffices, with a nod to a mixture of cams and wires that fit the crack systems well. The protection quality rates as good, with placements that are generally secure, though the pitch two crux demands attention for gear polish and careful placement. The climb’s rating is a robust but fair 5.9, feeling approachable but with crux sections that separate confident gear runners from those still dialing their trad skills.

When planning your ascent, timing matters—morning or late afternoon climbs work best to avoid peak sun making the rock uncomfortably hot, and the west-facing ridge means shade shifts predictably. Climbers should come prepared with solid footwear, adequate water, and a lightweight rack optimized for mixed crack sizes. The descent back via the cable anchor requires route knowledge, so studying the approach and rappel plans beforehand keeps your day running smoothly.

Clear-a-Sill offers not just a climb but a measured experience where nature’s challenge meets thoughtful planning. For those who value a balanced trad outing with a touch of adventure, it stands as a rewarding test tucked into one of Colorado’s premier climbing destinations.

Climber Safety

The rappel tree at the Verschneidung anchor has old, frayed slings making it unreliable for descent. Climbers should plan to traverse left to the cable anchor for safer, well-maintained rappel stations. Always double-check gear placements at the crux to avoid unexpected slips on polished holds.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length180 feet

Local Tips

Approach the climb via well-maintained trails with a 15-20 minute hike from the parking area.

Avoid midday sun—early morning or late afternoon climbs keep the rock cooler and help with grip.

Inspect rappel slings carefully; the anchor at Verschneidung has deteriorated and alternative rappel anchors are recommended.

Carry a full rack including small wires and cams in the #0.5 to #2 size to cover all crack variations.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Clear-a-Sill sits solidly in the moderate trad class with pitches that test gear placement and route reading rather than sustained difficulty. The crux on pitch two introduces a slightly harder move out right which elevates the challenge beyond the grade, while the rest of the climb feels solid and fair. Compared to nearby Eldorado routes, this one leans accessible but engaging.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack covers the gear needs here, with cams and small wires to protect the crack and the undercling move on pitch one. Protection quality is generally good, though be cautious placing gear around the crux on pitch two as the holds and placements require care.

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Tags

trad crack
multi-pitch
crux
moderate
gear-dependent
classic
west-facing