HomeClimbingClair's Route

Clair's Route at Outhouse Wall in Banff National Park

Lake Louise, Alberta Canada
trad gear
two-pitch
pitons
granite crack
moderate
Banff climbing
Lake Louise
Length: 165 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Clair's Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Clair’s Route is a compelling two-pitch trad climb on Outhouse Wall in Banff National Park that mixes solid gear placements with fixed pitons for protection. Ideal for adventurous climbers looking to experience classic granite cracks framed by stunning Rockies scenery."

Clair's Route at Outhouse Wall in Banff National Park

Clair's Route offers a direct and engaging trad climbing experience along the rugged cliffs of Outhouse Wall, situated within the striking expanse of Banff National Park. This two-pitch climb covers approximately 165 feet of vertical terrain that rewards careful gear placement and steady movement. From the start, the rock demands focus as you progress through a series of cracks and edges that lead you to the first anchor at Pub Night. The granite here carries the wear of previous ascents, but still holds reliable placements for protection up to 4 inches. Moving into the second pitch, the nature of the climb shifts—pitons mark the way upward, guiding climbers to the obvious anchor overhead. The combination of natural gear and fixed pitons provides a balanced protection strategy, allowing climbers to focus on technique and rhythm without worrying excessively about anchor security.

Outhouse Wall sits just beyond the busy lanes of Lake Louise, giving climbers a chance to engage with the rawness of the Canadian Rockies. The atmosphere here is defined by the sharp crack of fingers gripping cold rock and the occasional call of mountain birds against a backdrop of peaks dusted in alpine snow. The shaded wall tends to retain coolness through the day, so plan your ascent during mid-morning or late afternoon when temperatures are mild and the granite isn't slick from condensation.

Gear up with a standard trad rack including cams capable of fitting up to 4-inch placements. While the initial pitch requires well-placed protection, the second pitch hinges on trusting the pitons—a feature that adds both to the route’s historic character and technical interest. Boots with sticky rubber and a helmet are essentials here; loose rock and occasional falling debris pose real concerns given the nature of the second pitch.

Access to Outhouse Wall is straightforward. Start from the Lake Louise Village, then take the short approach hike through forested trails leading toward The Back of The Lake area. Expect roughly 20 minutes on foot over uneven ground, so wear supportive footwear and carry enough water, especially during warmer months when sun and trail dust can sap energy. GPS coordinates place you accurately at latitude 51.4076 and longitude -116.2405.

Once you've topped out, the descent is best handled by rappelling off the anchor stations, which provide secure fixtures for quick and safe returns. Be cautious of the slickness that may develop during wet or frosty conditions. This route is well suited for climbers comfortable with moderate 5.9 terrain who enjoy a blend of straightforward moves and technical gear placements. It delivers enough challenge to sharpen skills without overwhelming the less experienced, all inside one of Canada’s most iconic national parks.

If you’re plotting a climbing day in Banff, Clair's Route invites a focused yet rewarding outing. It leans heavily on practical trad skills while planting you firmly in an environment that captivates with granite’s raw power and the quiet rhythms of mountain life.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock on the second pitch where pitons replace natural gear; a helmet is crucial. Also, be mindful of damp or icy patches on the shaded wall, especially during cooler seasons or early mornings.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length165 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb mid-morning or late afternoon to avoid cool, damp conditions on the shaded wall.

Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber to handle the granite’s crisp edging.

A helmet is essential due to loose rock and occasional falling debris on the second pitch.

Hydrate well before the short but rugged approach hike from Lake Louise Village.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Clair's Route offers a straightforward challenge suited for climbers comfortable on moderate trad terrain. The grade feels appropriately paced, with no hidden cruxes but requiring solid footwork and confident gear placements. The use of pitons on the second pitch adds a unique texture, slightly increasing the mental component though the physical effort remains consistent with the grade.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack up to 4 inches for the first pitch; the second pitch relies primarily on pitons, so no extra gear is necessary there.

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Tags

trad gear
two-pitch
pitons
granite crack
moderate
Banff climbing
Lake Louise