"Choss Moss and Butt Floss offers a crisp, single-pitch sport climb in the Alabama Hills, threading a bolted crack with steady moves on rough granite. Ideal for those wanting a concise but precise 5.10a challenge under the high desert sun."
Choss Moss and Butt Floss presents a straightforward yet engaging challenge on the eastern Sierra's rugged doorstep. This single-pitch sport climb threads a bolted crack just right of the more famous Birthday Butt Crack, guiding you along a dry, textured wall punctuated by seven well-spaced bolts. The route rewards climbers with both steady movement and subtle route-finding, demanding a steady hand and precise footwork on its 5.10a grade. As you ascend, the wall could feel alive under your fingertips, with the rough granite surfaces offering a tactile dialogue between climber and rock.
The setting frames the experience — the Alabama Hills stretch out around you, offering harsh desert air mingled with the scent of sagebrush and pine. The crag’s southern exposure warms the rock for early morning attempts but can bake it under the midday sun, so timing your climb before the heat peaks will keep you comfortable and focused. Approaching the climb is a short walk on uneven terrain, where loose stones foil the unprepared — solid shoes with firm traction are essential.
Protection is straightforward here: just the quickdraws clipped to the fixed bolts. With seven bolts to the anchor, the route emphasizes clipping technique and smooth movement more than gear placement or risk management. A two-bolt anchor tops the climb, ensuring a solid, reliable point for your rappel or lowering.
For aspiring climbers eyeing the Alabama Hills, Choss Moss and Butt Floss is a perfect test of skill and composure at the 5.10a level in a location that balances easy access with raw, desert charm. While modest in length, this climb offers a compact experience where every hold and move counts. Prepare for loose terrain, desert sun, and a climb that whispers challenge rather than shouts it.
Plan your trip with hydration in mind; the arid climate can drain energy faster than expected. Morning climbs are best before the sun sizzles the rock surface. Carry quickdraws specifically rated for sport climbing, and don’t rush the steady rhythm this route demands. Sandwiched in the broader Lone Pine landscape, the climb also rewards with sweeping Sierra views, far-reaching scrubland, and the distant silhouette of jagged peaks.
Whether it's a stepping stone for your progression or a crisp desert crag experience to savor, Choss Moss and Butt Floss stands as both a technical venture and a scenic escape amid California’s iconic rock formations. Approach with patience and respect for the environment, embrace the tactile conversation between hand and stone, and take a moment to absorb the stark beauty that surrounds this unique climb.
Loose rock at the approach requires attention to footing; helmets are recommended. The route’s bolts and anchors are sound but clip carefully to avoid falls onto sharp edges. Beware of midday heat causing slippery, sweaty holds. Check weather conditions; desert winds can shift swiftly.
Start early to avoid high afternoon temperatures on the sun-exposed wall.
Wear shoes with good grip to handle loose, rocky approach trails.
Hydrate well; water isn’t readily available near the base.
Clip draws carefully, as bolts are spaced to encourage smooth, controlled movement.
The route is equipped with seven bolts with quickdraws required to clip protection. A two-bolt anchor secures the top for rappelling or lowering. No trad gear needed.
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