"Moonshine Pillar offers adventurous sport climbing on dramatic, lightly trafficked stone in Alabama Hills North. With a uniquely approachable vibe, must-try classic, and short approach, it's perfect for climbers seeking new territory beyond the usual circuit."
Standing guard over the sun-baked expanse of Alabama Hills North, Moonshine Pillar isn’t the largest formation in this iconic California landscape, but what it promises is pure adventure for those who love discovery and a shot of excitement with their climbing days. Just a brisk five-minute stroll north of Hillbilly Pillar, this leaning tower emerges from the high desert like an invitation: its 4,736-foot elevation grants cooling breezes and far-reaching views, yet it keeps the approach mercifully short and sweet.
Your journey to Moonshine Pillar starts with a quick scramble past Pauls Paradise, where well-trodden use trails branch right around Hillbilly Pillar (perfect for early birds looking to wake legs on mild terrain), or you might wander left then cut north, with the pillar coming into sight after only about 150 yards. The easy approach leaves you plenty of energy to focus on the routes—and that's a good thing, given the Pillar's unique mix of excitement and caution.
Most lines trace the north face, threading bolt to bolt up stone that wavers in quality—from the suspect to the sublime—making each move a lesson in attention. There’s an aura of uncertainty here, with the rock demanding respect and an alert mind. Experienced climbers will feel a pulse of anticipation as they step onto the stone, knowing that this spot remains off most people's radar, an under-appreciated playground with bolts where it counts, but which still asks you to stay sharp. Save for "Bad Shine" on the east face, all the main routes line the shadowy north. You’ll find well-placed sport bolts keeping things reasonably safe, though the first bolt on some lines sits just high enough to give you pause—confidence and a solid spotter are recommended on the first moves.
It would be easy to breeze through the climb list, but Moonshine Pillar’s true allure is in its stand-out route: "200 Proof" (5.8). The three-star rating is earned, offering quality movement on the area’s best rock—an ideal introduction for first-time visitors or anyone seeking a lower-commitment but highly memorable line. This route proves that, even among unpredictable stone, moments of real excellence shine through.
For those ticking off every climb, know that six quick draws is all you’ll need on most lines—to the top and back. Each line is capped by mussy hooks or closed shuts; sport climbers will appreciate the ease of cleaning (remember to thread your own draws if top-roping to prolong the life of local hardware). Traditional climbers aren’t left out entirely: "the Crack (Route C)" diverges from the pack, taking gear instead of bolts, rewarding those comfortable with placing pro—even as its less-traveled surface raises the stakes a little. The character here leans sport, but the option for trad adventure adds value for mixed groups.
What sets Moonshine Pillar apart in Alabama Hills isn’t just the routes—it’s the vibe. Here, you’re far enough from the crowds to enjoy the silence, close enough to Lone Pine for post-session burritos, and a stone’s throw from some of the wildest, most photographed landscapes in the state. While it may never see heavy traffic, that’s part of the draw: it’s a hush-hush spot for sport climbers who enjoy a little edge, a little uncertainty, and the thrill of finding something special before the word gets out.
Adventurous, challenging, and heartily rewarding—Moonshine Pillar is proof that sometimes the smaller, less-traveled towers deliver outsized experiences.
Exercise extra caution due to variable rock quality on the north face—helmets are strongly recommended. Some first bolts sit higher than typical, so stick clip if you’re uneasy with runouts. Watch your footing on approaches, and always assess anchors before committing to a top-rope setup.
Sun protection is essential—there’s limited shade on the approach and at the base.
Warm up elsewhere or bring caution—some of the north face rock is fragile in spots.
Use your own draws when top-roping to preserve anchor wear.
Check the approach direction—both right and left around Hillbilly Pillar will get you there in five minutes.
Bring six quick draws for any route except the Crack (Route C), which takes traditional gear. All anchors are equipped with mussy hooks or closed shuts. If you plan to top-rope, bring your own draws for the anchors to protect fixed hardware.
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