Chives at West Ridge - The Potato Chip, Eldorado Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
traverse
arete
single pitch
technical
Eldorado quartzite
trad gear
PG13
exposed moves
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chives
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chives is a compact, technical trad climb on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge, featuring a challenging traverse and a striking arete. Ideal for experienced leaders, it pairs steady protection with exciting movement over 80 feet of classic Colorado quartzite."

Chives at West Ridge - The Potato Chip, Eldorado Canyon

Chives offers a focused climb along Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge, delivering a concentrated burst of technical trad climbing over a single pitch of roughly 80 feet. Starting with the initial 40 to 50 feet of the classic Sour Cream route, you encounter the best section immediately, where the rock feels solid, and the holds invite deliberate movement. Just beyond an overhang, the route demands a confident placement of protection—tricams or SLCDs between 1 and 1.5 inches—set cleverly on a short sling below a subtle roof and beneath a scruffy pine tree clinging to the crack. Here the rock challenges your balance and headspace.

From this anchor, the climb takes a committing traverse hard right across two excellent holds to reach the arete. These moves represent the crux of the route, requiring finesse and a steady mindset as you push around the edge. The arete itself, ascending roughly ten feet to the first solid protection, is exposed but engaging, offering excellent friction and a chance to test your footwork.

While the route carries a bit of runout through the traverse, it’s well within reach for a capable 5.9 leader who trusts their gear placements and movement. The climb’s character is one of measured risk versus reward, where precise gear choice and sharp focus combine to earn each move. After topping out the arete, you continue upward along the prominent ridge that extends just left of The Potato Chip route, a feature well known to locals for its distinctive profile and quality stone.

Protection calls for a standard Eldorado rack with cams ranging from 0.5 to 2 inches, bolstered by a handful of tricams for tricky placements. These pro choices reflect the route’s sustained cracks and subtle flares, offering comfort in an otherwise prepared but engaging lead.

Access to the climb follows the familiar Sour Cream approach, a trail that balances forested patches with open rock views. The descent mirrors the route known as Ruffle Have Ridges, a straightforward but careful walk-off with some downclimbing sections.

Climbers will find that Chives is an energizing introduction or a sharp technical exercise on Eldorado’s iconic west ridge. Its short length belies the attention and strategic climbing required, set against a backdrop of towering quartzite walls crowned by pines and Colorado skies. The route rewards the prepared leader with a compact adventure that sharpens skills without a full day commitment, making it a strong candidate for an afternoon climb or a taste of Eldo’s classic steep rock.

Local conditions favor early day ascents in spring through fall, when the sun hits the face warmly but avoids the heat and wind extremes common in summer. Footwear with sticky rubber and a medium to stiff sole will enhance edging on the exposed arete. Hydrating well and carrying light rack essentials keeps your pack trim and your mind clear.

In sum, Chives combines a tight technical challenge with classic Eldorado character, inviting climbers to engage with steep, well-protected stone and the exposed thrill of a traversing headwall. It's a route that sharpens both gear savvy and movement precision, perfect for those who appreciate a taste of adventure wrapped in thoughtful climbing craftsmanship.

Climber Safety

The traverse section is moderately runout; ensure gear placements are solid and maintain focus as falls here could be serious. The rock is generally sound but inspect fixed slings before use. Descent involves downclimbing and scrambling—use caution especially in wet or icy conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the Sour Cream trailhead for quickest access.

Place gear carefully on the traverse to manage runout effectively.

Ideal climbing times are spring and fall mornings to avoid heat.

Descend following the Ruffle Have Ridges route—take care with downclimb sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 PG13, Chives carries a touch more mental demand due to its runout traverse, requiring confident gear placement and composure. The grade feels accurate, with the crux centered on the hard right traverse and subsequent arete moves. Compared to nearby West Ridge climbs, it’s a solid mid-level test with a slightly bolder edge.

Gear Requirements

Use a standard Eldorado rack including cams from 0.5 to 2 inches and several tricams; focus on placing solid pro below the roof and along the arete to protect the tricky traverse.

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Tags

traverse
arete
single pitch
technical
Eldorado quartzite
trad gear
PG13
exposed moves