Chimneying 101 presents a concise yet invigorating introduction to the tactile art of offwidth climbing, set against the rugged backdrop of Unaweep Granite. This single-pitch trad route offers roughly 85 feet of vertical engagement, demanding both strength and technique as you navigate its hand crack and chimney features. From the base, you’re drawn into a clean, perfect hand crack that extends for about 15 feet inside a flared corner—a natural invitation to test your jamming skills. The crack soon gives way to wider offwidth moves requiring secure stemming and body positioning, forcing you to engage a different set of muscles and mental focus.

As the rock’s personality shifts, the route leads into a chimney that feels almost alive, a narrow chamber where your body presses to opposing walls as you ascend. Protection runs close and thoughtful here, with opportunities to place cams along the way, especially a critical #3 Camalot at the roof where the line pivots. Passing this roof demands a subtle balance of power and finesse before the route eases into easier chimneying and culminates with a leftward move onto more straightforward terrain to top out. The climbing flow combines commitment and rhythm, making it an ideal pitch for climbers eager to sharpen their crack and chimney techniques while soaking in the raw, grippy texture of Colorado’s Unaweep Canyon.

Gear-wise, this route rewards a well-rounded rack with Black Diamond camalots in singles from #0.5 to #5, plus an extra #3 for the roof section. Anchor sharing with the adjacent Elysium route simplifies the descent, requiring an 80-foot rappel heading south. While the rock generally offers solid protection placements, expect some challenging offwidth bites and a chimney that demands continuous body tension and footwork precision. Approach is manageable, with the Lower Mighty Mouse Wall easily reached from the canyon floor where granite formations rise sharply, sculpting a landscape both stark and inviting.

Time your climb to avoid the hottest hours as the south-facing wall can bake under the midday sun, especially in the warmer months. Spring and fall provide comfortable temperatures and stable weather to maximize enjoyment and hold quality. This route suits intermediate trad climbers ready to venture beyond standard crack climbing, offering a hands-on environment to build confidence with wide placements and chimney sequencing.

For those aiming to master chimney climbing or simply savor the tactile challenge of offwidths, Chimneying 101 is a perfect gateway. Its compact length keeps commitment reasonable while presenting enough complexity to engage the mind and body. From the echo of your boots against stone to the subtle shifts in pressure as you navigate the crack and chimney, the route pulls you into a hands-on dialogue with the rock, sharpening both technique and awareness. Expect a climb that’s as much about patience and balance as it is about strength—a true test of precise movement and protective instincts on one of Unaweep’s quieter but highly rewarding walls.