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Chicken Hawk

Fresno, California United States
sport climbing
granite
overhanging corner
single pitch
moderate pump
Length: 90 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chicken Hawk
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chicken Hawk is a classic sport route on Fresno Dome’s Main Wall, featuring a sharp overhanging corner crux protected by seven bolts. Its approachable length and steady granite make it a must-try for climbers honing their 5.10 technique."

Chicken Hawk

Chicken Hawk offers a striking introduction to the Main Wall area of Fresno Dome, standing out with its well-bolted, single-pitch sport climb that demands focus and finesse. The route carves a clear path to the left of Split Personality, where climbers encounter a dynamic overhanging corner that defines the crux. This move requires controlled power and precise footwork to overcome the steep bulge, challenging climbers to engage their upper-body strength without sacrificing balance. Below, the granite presents gently textured holds that reward careful reading of the rock while providing confidence on the approach to the crux.

The climb stretches approximately 90 feet, a manageable length that draws in both seasoned sport climbers and those looking to push into the 5.10 range. Start from a solid base on reassuring granite, where seven bolts protect the climb with a bolted anchor securing the top. As you ascend, the rock’s subtle features invite steady breathing, punctuated by the satisfying clink of quickdraws clipping in rhythm. The position on Fresno Dome gives you a quiet sense of isolation amid the Southern Sierra, with soaring views unfolding as you glance out toward rugged ridges beyond.

Access to Chicken Hawk involves a straightforward approach from the parking area near Fresno Dome (Wamello), weaving through patches of pine and chaparral. The trail is well established, with a gentle incline that climbs easily, making it practical for an afternoon outing or a day dedicated to testing sport routes in the area. Given the wall's southwest aspect, mornings deliver the best light and moderate temperatures, though the climb remains enjoyable under afternoon sun in cooler seasons.

Protection here suits those comfortable with sport lines: the bolts are placed to negotiate the crux safely, but the route still demands attentive clipping and respect for the exposed overhang. Climbers should come prepared with a rack of quickdraws and sturdy footwear that can handle the granite’s varied texture—from crumbly edges to steeper pockets.

In short, Chicken Hawk delivers an approachable yet technical challenge that invites climbers to sharpen their technique on a standout face of Fresno Dome. It blends engaging movement with a setting that rewards with both beauty and quiet concentration, perfect for those aiming to sharpen their 5.10 skills in a well-protected environment.

Climber Safety

While bolts provide good protection, the overhanging crux can strain grip and foot placements. Maintain careful clipping technique to avoid falls on the corner section. The granite can feel sharp, so gloves aren’t recommended but careful hand positioning helps prevent skin damage.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler morning temperatures and optimal light on the southwest-facing wall.

Footwear with solid edging performance will help on the granite’s less-positive holds.

Be prepared for a pumpy crux; keep your breathing steady and focus on technique.

Access trail is well marked but can be slippery after rain—wear trail shoes for approach.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Chicken Hawk carries a well-defined crux on an overhanging corner requiring clean clipping and efficient movement. The grade is consistent with similar sport climbs in Fresno Dome but might feel slightly stiff if the climber’s endurance is not yet solid. The bolt spacing encourages confident, controlled movement without long runouts.

Gear Requirements

Route is equipped with 7 bolts and a bolted anchor. Bring a standard sport rack of quickdraws to clip smoothly through the moderately spaced bolts.

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Tags

sport climbing
granite
overhanging corner
single pitch
moderate pump