HomeClimbingChicken Comb

Chicken Comb

Twentynine Palms, California United States
finger crack
arete
single pitch
desert climb
trad gear
Joshua Tree
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Chicken Comb
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Chicken Comb delivers an engaging single-pitch trad climb in Joshua Tree’s Echo Rock Area, combining technical crack work with exposed arete moves. Perfect for trad climbers seeking a concise, rewarding ascent that captures the desert’s rugged charm."

Chicken Comb

Chicken Comb offers a distinctive introduction to Joshua Tree's renowned Echo Rock Area, combining a straightforward approach with engaging moves that test your crack climbing skills and balance on airy aretes. From the base, the climb eases you into action by guiding you toward a flake with an overhanging lip, immediately demanding attention and respect as it thrusts forward like a daring challenge carved into the rock. This initial section, though approachable, sets the tone with just enough steezy complexity to keep you focused.

As you transition onto the outside arete fin bordering the right side of the Nestle's Crunch dihedral, the climb takes on a wild character. Here, the rock feels alive—sharp edges under fingertips, the sun warming the textured granite that gleams in the desert light. This slender ridge exposes you to the desert air and requires careful footwork, rewarding climbers with a tactile sense of the crack’s personality. Each hold encourages a dialogue between climber and stone, the kind that keeps you present and engaged.

The final section channels energy through the fingers-to-hands crack of Sugar Daddy and Nestle's Crunch, where technique becomes paramount. This crack runs invitingly but demands precision and a steady rhythm. Finishing this pitch feels like a small victory—the kind that compels climbers to smile with the joy of having played on vivid features unique to Joshua Tree granite.

Protection on Chicken Comb is best handled with a full rack up to 2.5 inches, as placements can be varied and require attention to detail. Anchor options exist farther back, offering choices whether you want to link with the topside bolts of the adjacent Bare Leigh Legal route or set your own secure finish. Avoid relying solely on these anchor bolts unless you're comfortable with the line they find, as the direction they pull might complicate your descent.

Planning your climb here means anticipating the desert sun's intensity; morning ascents can reward you with cooler rock and softer light, while midday exposure demands hydration and sun protection. The one-pitch route measures around 60 feet, making it a concise yet satisfying choice for those looking to sharpen crack-climbing skills without committing to a multi-pitch haul. Approach trails around Echo Rock are well-marked but bring sturdy shoes for the short, strewn terrain that slopes upward towards the climb’s base.

For climbers ready to explore more in Joshua Tree, Chicken Comb is a practical gem—fun, accessible, and distinctly textured—laying out a focused experience that blends desert challenge with straightforward beta. Whether you're fine-tuning your crack game or simply after a solid 5.9 trad climb with character, this formation rewards diligence with rock that talks back, edge by edge.

Climber Safety

Protection placements demand care—some spots may feel marginal if gear isn’t well-tuned. Anchors are set back and may introduce rope drag; ensure your setup accounts for line direction. Watch for loose rock near the flake and maintain steady foot placement on the arete to avoid slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday heat and find cooler rock conditions.

Bring plenty of water as desert sun can dehydrate quickly.

Wear comfortable, stiff-soled shoes for friction and crack jams.

Scout the anchor placements before leading to plan efficient gear use.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated a true 5.9, Chicken Comb features a consistent difficulty with no unexpected cruxes but requires solid crack technique and balance on the exposed arete. The grade feels fair, offering a reliable challenge comparable to other classic Joshua Tree 5.9 cracks.

Gear Requirements

Full trad rack up to 2.5 inches is a must for secure protection. Anchor gear is best placed well behind the route; consider supplementing with bare bolts from neighboring Bare Leigh Legal only if comfortable with the pull direction. Avoid relying solely on fixed bolts for anchors.

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Tags

finger crack
arete
single pitch
desert climb
trad gear
Joshua Tree