"Chicken Bones delivers a deceptively short but demanding trad climb on the west face of Little Rock Candy Mountain. With widely spaced large holds and a key traverse halfway up, this 30-foot route challenges both your technique and gear placements, offering a concentrated taste of Joshua Tree’s desert grit."
Chicken Bones commands your full attention from the moment your boots hit the base of this steep, unassuming face in Joshua Tree’s Echo Rock Area. At a mere 30 feet, this route packs a surprising punch, challenging climbers with its large but widely spaced holds that demand both precision and commitment. The climb starts on the west face, where a subtle crack threads its way upward. This crack is more than a line of weakness—it dares you to trust hand and foot placements on an exposed face that feels harder than its 5.8 rating suggests. About halfway up, you’ll reach a small ledge that offers a brief moment to catch your breath and recalibrate. Here, the real navigation test begins: a traverse to the right leads into a left-facing corner which smooths into a final push to the top.
The geology of Little Rock Candy Mountain gives this route a gritty texture under your fingers, with the sun-baked rock radiating warmth and offering reliable friction. Despite its short length, Chicken Bones teaches patience and technique over brute force. Unlike typical sport routes where protection is clipped from bolts, this climb requires a traditional rack—be prepared to place gear thoughtfully as placements can be sparse and the spacing between holds can make rests elusive.
Situated in the quieter side of Joshua Tree National Park, the Echo Rock Area rewards climbers with views of rugged desert expanses stretching without interruption. The approach through sandy trails lined with drought-hardy shrubs sets the mood: a rugged, no-frills desert climb that tests your skills rather than your stamina.
Planning your ascents around midday can expose you to the full desert sun, making hydration essential. Lightweight, breathable gear and sturdy climbing shoes with dependable edging capability will serve you well here. Because the route only takes about ten minutes to climb, it’s ideal for those squeezing in a quality challenge between longer outings.
Chicken Bones is a route for the trad climber who thrives on technical movement and the satisfaction of placing their own protection. Though quick, it demands focus and respect, giving a precise example of Joshua Tree’s distinctive climbing ethos—adventure stripped to essentials, where every hold and cam placement counts. Before you climb, run through your gear carefully and visualize the traverse; the rewards are measured in skill landed and the desert’s quiet, expansive backdrop.
Protection placements require attention; some spots are tricky and run out between pro. The rock is generally solid but can be sharp in places. Watch for loose debris on the ledge, and be cautious of sun exposure, especially in summer months.
Start early to avoid the peak desert heat and sun exposure.
Use climbing shoes with solid edging performance for the wide holds.
Hydrate well and carry water as the approach and climb are dry and exposed.
Visualize the traverse section before climbing to conserve energy on the wall.
Bring a standard trad rack with a focus on small to medium cams. Protection opportunities are limited and may require careful placements around edges and cracks. No fixed gear is available on this climb.
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