HomeClimbingCharnel Grounds

Charnel Grounds: A Bold Mixed Climb in Yukon’s Wailing Wall

Whitehorse, Canada
mixed climbing
alpine
variable rock
Yukon
sparse protection
Length: 300 ft
Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Charnel Grounds
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Charnel Grounds presents an adventurous blend of moderate alpine climbing and mixed terrain. With variable rock quality and sparse protection, it challenges climbers to balance steady technique with careful gear placement high in Yukon’s rugged Wailing Wall."

Charnel Grounds: A Bold Mixed Climb in Yukon’s Wailing Wall

Charnel Grounds offers a compelling blend of straightforward alpine climbing with a mixed edge, inviting climbers who appreciate the raw, untamed character of Yukon’s Wailing Wall. Here, the rock demands respect—not for sheer difficulty but for its variable texture and pro placements that test your judgment as much as your moves. The route stretches roughly 300 feet over two pitches, starting with a sequence of bulges and slabs leading toward a short, 4-meter dihedral tucked beneath a left-leaning gully. Climbing through this dihedral, you'll find pockets of solid protection challenging you to place your cams thoughtfully amid the sometimes loose stone.

The ascent continues up the gully itself, a rugged channel that dares you to trust the frozen sod and decent-sized sticks protecting a chossy bulge that guards the penultimate challenge. The mixture of alpine terrain and sporadic rock sections creates a dance between grip and balance, with solid pro peppering the higher reaches. Expect to shift your focus from secure placements to steady footwork as you navigate the outcrop’s final stretch under the crisp northern sky.

Safety here hinges on careful gear management; without screws, your rack should lean towards cams up to 3 inches, emphasizing precision and vigilance in an environment where protection is sparse and the rock tells you to move with intention. The climb rewards thoughtful planning and steady nerves rather than brute force, making it ideal for seasoned alpinists seeking moderate technical climbing framed by a wilderness backdrop.

Approach is straightforward but demands focus, with access leading through alpine terrain that sets both the tone and tempo for your climb. Given the northern latitude, timing your ascent to suit daylight hours and weather conditions is critical; early summer offers stable frozen sod and safer protection placements, while later seasons introduce greater variability and exposure.

Charnel Grounds embodies a practical adventure, pairing clear, manageable technical challenges with the unfiltered atmosphere of northern alpine climbing. This route is not just a climb; it’s an experience inviting you into a raw, dynamic environment where each move counts and nature’s forces command your full attention.

Climber Safety

Be aware of the variable rock quality and sparse protection placements; rockfall risk increases near the chossy bulge. Timing your climb to coincide with stable frozen sod is crucial for safely placing sticks, and care must be taken on slabs that can be deceptively slick.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Mixed, Alpine
Pitches2
Length300 feet

Local Tips

Approach early in summer for more reliable frozen sod and safer placements.

Bring a rack focused on small to medium cams due to sparse protection spots.

Watch footing on slabs and near the chossy bulge—loose rock is common.

Plan your descent carefully and be ready for variable weather common in northern alpine environments.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6 M4 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.6 rating paired with M4 mixed climbing feels moderately challenging, especially considering the PG13 protection suggesting runouts and limited pro. The crux lies in the dihedral and the chossy bulge where balance and technical placements bump the route’s difficulty beyond just the numeric grade. Compared to other Yukon alpine climbs, it sits comfortably in the moderate-range but demands good mixed climbing skills.

Gear Requirements

Essential gear includes cams up to 3 inches as no ice screws are needed, but solid placements can be tricky. Decent sticks should be brought for the gulley’s frozen sod, and a rack tuned for mixed terrain is recommended.

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Tags

mixed climbing
alpine
variable rock
Yukon
sparse protection