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Cat in the Hat: A Sport Climber's Challenge on Owens River Gorge

Bishop, California United States
arete
bolt protected
sport climbing
single pitch
desert climbing
technical moves
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cat in the Hat
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cat in the Hat offers a direct, technical ascent up a striking arete in Owens River Gorge. With well-spaced bolts guarding continuous movement and a memorable crux, this 5.8 sport route challenges climbers seeking a concise yet rewarding climb in the Eastern Sierra."

Cat in the Hat: A Sport Climber's Challenge on Owens River Gorge

Carved into the rugged face of the Upper Gorge lies Cat in the Hat, a 50-foot sport route that delivers steady engagement with a straightforward yet compelling sequence. Located within the Owens River Gorge near Bishop, California, this climb showcases the area's signature volcanic tuff and offers a direct line up a sharp arete that demands both focus and fluid movement. From the ground up, climbers are met with a bold face punctuated by seven well-placed bolts that guide you past the route’s defining crux.

The climb begins with a confident reach past a one-inch cam placement that sets the tone for slick smears and technically poised moves. The first bolt guards the crux—a slender section where precision footwork and steady balance become your best assets. Beyond this, the route opens up, inviting you to cruise along the arete where the wall leans slightly, requiring strategic rests and careful breathing.

The rock itself is textured, offering edges and pockets that reward experienced hands yet remain accessible for those comfortable at 5.8. The path is somewhat flexible; the line flows upward first over the right side of the arete, then shifts to the left, allowing climbers room to navigate according to their preferred beta. This variability invites exploration and personal style, making the ascent as much a mental puzzle as a physical test.

Situated in the Owens River Gorge—a prime climbing pocket on California’s Sierra Eastside—the setting amplifies the experience. The surrounding cliffs rise over a sparse desert landscape punctuated by juniper and sagebrush, with the river’s steady murmur below lending a constant soundtrack. While the approach is short and defined, the climb itself rewards attentiveness and respect for the rock’s subtle nuances.

Planning your day here means considering the sun’s angle on the wall; the route enjoys partial shade in the afternoon, making spring and fall the best seasons for a comfortable ascent. Gear-wise, the fully bolted line removes the need for extensive traditional placements, but a small cam or two can provide peace of mind for added security at the start. Mussy hooks, while historically referenced, are not required with the current bolt count. A helmet is a must, given the nature of the rock and occasional loose flakes near the base.

Local climbers recommend beginning the climb early to avoid the midday heat common in the Owens area, and packing a water supply that matches the secluded quality of the gorge. The short approach trail is a steady walk with some rocky sections, warranting sturdy footwear and a careful eye for loose stones. On descent, a single rappel from the anchor brings you back down swiftly, returning you to the calming desert floor where the Owens River continues its quiet push downstream.

Cat in the Hat isn’t just another 5.8 route; it’s a compelling encounter with Owens Gorge’s volcanic walls, perfect for those seeking a sport climb that blends technical moves with no-nonsense outdoor ambiance. Whether you’re polishing your face-climbing skills or chasing a solid warm-up before tackling harder lines nearby, this is a climb that balances challenge, accessibility, and the unspoken call of the high desert.

Climber Safety

Watch out for loose flakes near the climb base and on the approach trail. While protection is solid, a helmet is essential due to occasional rockfall. The sun can become intense mid-day—bring sun protection and water to stay safe in this dry, exposed environment.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the intense sun and heat on Owens Gorge walls.

Wear sturdy shoes to navigate the rocky approach trail safely.

Bring plenty of water—shade is limited on this desert-facing cliff.

Use a helmet to protect from occasional loose rock near the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Cat in the Hat carries a classic, moderate challenge that feels true to grade, with a crisp crux requiring precise footwork. The seven bolts provide solid protection, making it a confident lead for climbers comfortable with face climbing and slight overhang. Compared to other Owens River Gorge sport routes, it holds a steady but approachable difficulty perfect for intermediate climbers honing technique.

Gear Requirements

The route is fully bolted with seven bolts, eliminating the need for traditional gear except for initial placements such as a small one-inch cam for additional confidence. Mussy hooks are optional but rarely required with current protection.

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Tags

arete
bolt protected
sport climbing
single pitch
desert climbing
technical moves