"Holy Trinity in California’s Owens River Gorge delivers pocketed limestone walls kissed by morning sun and cooled by late day shade. Climbers will find a mix of approachable scrambles and chalked classic routes, including Pick Pocket and the striking Sex routes, set against the raw beauty of the high desert. This guide outlines the approach, access considerations, and key route insights to help you prepare for an intense day of climbing in a wild setting."
Holy Trinity stands as a striking destination within California’s Owens River Gorge, offering climbers an engaging mix of sunlit pockets and shady relief in the afternoon. The climb here unveils a rugged charm, marked by a wall peppered with pockets and features that demand precision and command. Morning light bathes the rock to reveal fine textures, while the later hours bring refreshing shade—a perfect balance for a full day of climbing.
Accessing Holy Trinity is slightly adventurous in itself. From the upper approach, you’ll hike south along the gorge, pass the rustic trestle, carefully navigate around the bend, and cross over a log and bridge before edging through a nettle swamp. Take a left at the trail, which climbs toward the chalk-covered face, a clear signal of the popular climbs to come. This route is an experience, a transition from dense river gorge to exposed rock that rewards the effort with spectacular climbing. However, note that some routes near the center start off on a ledge requiring an easy 5th class scramble, adding a bit of variety and excitement to your approach.
Holy Trinity’s elevation at just over 5,700 feet offers cool alpine air and impressive views of the Owens River winding below—giving climbers not just a physical challenge but also a chance to absorb the high-desert environment. Routes range in intensity but many feature pocketed holds that test technique and finger strength.
Among the standouts, Pick Pocket (5.11a) deserves special attention, known for its crisp moves and chalky holds that demand focus and finesse. The group of "Sex" routes adds a dash of character and challenge to the area’s offerings. Other classics like Boom Chakalaka (5.10a) and Chameleon (5.11b) keep the climbing quality high and memorable.
The climbing community at Holy Trinity is conscious of ongoing access challenges. Bridges in the gorge have been removed at LADWP’s request due to liability concerns, prompting active negotiations with local climbers and organizations. Until resolved, climbers must find alternative crossings and exercise care, respecting closures to safeguard this access.
Practical considerations include parking and campground restrictions—never block gates or park overnight at access points. The local ethic emphasizes leaving no trace, including cleaning up after pets and packing out all trash. Outhouses on-site help maintain the area’s cleanliness and sustainability.
Gear-wise, expect to bring a rack suited for sport climbing; many routes are bolted, but understanding the nature of the terrain and potential approach scrambles is essential. Technique and finger strength will be your allies on the pocketed vertical rock.
Whether you’re aiming for technical routes like Biochemically Compacted Sexual Arousal (5.12a) or stretching limits with Makealove (5.13b), Holy Trinity provides a concentrated dose of chalked limestone climbing with a distinctly wild feel. It’s a place where the gorge strips away distractions, letting the rock and your skills take center stage.
Planning your day here means balancing the sun’s rhythm: early climbs reward with warmth and grip, while late afternoon shadows offer cooler relief. Keep an eye on precipitation and weather trends; spring through fall bring the best conditions, although the high desert climate can swing sharply. Respect for the fragile ecosystem around the gorge is paramount.
Holy Trinity’s appeal lies in its blend of accessible yet challenging routes, natural setting, and the grit of the gorge itself. Classic climbs weave through this chalk-streaked wall, each offering different rewards while contributing to the area's character and appeal. Prepare to engage your climbing mind and body here—this is a climb that demands respect and rewards persistence with unforgettable movement and views.
Approach routes include easy 5th class scrambles off ledges, requiring attention to footing. The removal of bridges demands cautious river crossings off established paths. Nettle patches can irritate, so protective clothing is advisable. Respect trail conditions and fragile terrain to maintain access.
Respect the current bridge closures—use alternate river crossings and stay informed on LADWP negotiations.
Park only off pavement without blocking gates and avoid overnight stays at access points.
Bring plenty of water and sun protection to handle the exposed, high desert environment.
Carry out every piece of trash, including dog waste, and use the on-site outhouses to protect the area.
Bring a sport climbing rack with quickdraws and a rope suited for single pitches. Some routes start from a ledge that requires easy 5th class scrambling, so approach shoes or light hiking footwear will help. Chalk is abundant and recommended given the chalked nature of many routes.
Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.