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Casual Tuesday: A Starter Trad Climb at Tower of Tails

Okanagan, Canada
hand crack
chimney crux
easy protection
single pitch
beginner friendly
Okanagan
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Casual Tuesday
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Casual Tuesday, a straightforward 40-foot crack route on the Tower of Tails, invites climbers to test trad skills on a clean line with a friendly approach. Its modest grade and accessible protection make it a go-to for those eager to build confidence in crack climbing."

Casual Tuesday: A Starter Trad Climb at Tower of Tails

Casual Tuesday offers a straightforward introduction to trad climbing on the Tower of Tails, an isolated spire set against the vast Okanagan landscape in British Columbia. This single-pitch, 40-foot route follows a friendly corner and crack system that feels approachable yet engaging, making it an ideal climb for those easing into trad terrain or seeking a quick, satisfying ascent. The line hums with quiet challenge as you navigate its gently angling crack, which invites steady hand and foot placements without demanding over-the-top committing moves. The climb’s signature moment arrives near the top, where the route narrows into a small chimney. Here, the crux is precise: pulling through without losing grip or resting on holds, a move that asks for smooth technique and controlled strength.

From the ground, the Tower of Tails stands as a slender, proud formation accessed via a short approach that weaves through mixed forest and rocky outcrops — a journey that primes the senses with fresh scent and the occasional call of birds. The rock’s texture offers reassuring friction, and natural protection placements are ample and solid, relying on a selection of cams ranging from BD #0.4 to #2. This gear range covers the crack widths securely, ensuring peace of mind on the climb. Carrying an extra rappel cord is recommended to manage a confident descent.

Though modest in length, Casual Tuesday never feels trivial. The route’s moderate 5.7 grade is well-suited for newcomers brushing up their crack skills, while seasoned climbers will appreciate its clean lines and scenic setting. Completing the pitch reveals a vantage point with broad views of the surrounding Okanagan wilderness, rewarding effort with the wide sweep of sky and distant hills.

Access to the Tower of Tails involves a manageable hike through mixed-terrain trails, offering a perfect warm-up along with ample opportunity to observe the local flora and subtle shifts in elevation. Climbers should prepare for variable weather typical of the region, balancing sun exposure with cooler forest shade. Footwear with good edging and grip will make the approach smoother, while hydration remains essential even on shorter routes.

Overall, Casual Tuesday balances adventure and accessibility in a way that encourages exploration while respecting the natural rhythm of the climb. Whether you’re sharpening crack technique or simply soaking in a crisp mountain climb, this route is a welcoming invitation to test your skills and feel the pulse of the rock beneath your hands.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on the chimney crux near the top where holds are small and tricky transitions demand clean technique. Ensure all your protection is placed securely along the crack, and prepare for the descent by bringing an extra rappel cord.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Wear shoes with sticky rubber for friction on the corner and crack.

Plan your climb during stable weather, as the chimney crux requires dry rock for secure hands.

Carry an extra rappel rope to ensure a smooth and secure descent.

Hydrate well and wear sun protection due to limited shade on the approach and summit.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.7
Quality
Consensus:At 5.7, Casual Tuesday sits comfortably within the moderate trad range—accessible but engaging. The grade feels fair with the crux chimney move slightly bumping the challenge without overwhelming. Compared to other local climbs, it leans toward the easier end, perfect for those gaining experience on trad cracks.

Gear Requirements

Essential gear includes cams in the BD #0.4 to #2 range; these sizes comfortably protect the easy corner and crack system. Bringing an extra rappel cord is wise for descending safely.

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Tags

hand crack
chimney crux
easy protection
single pitch
beginner friendly
Okanagan