"Car Stud is a focused 80-foot sport climb on Turret Dome’s eastern wall in Elevenmile Canyon. With clean granite, a runout protected by a #2 Camalot, and a technical crux near the midpoint, it offers a compelling challenge that balances risk and reward for climbers ready to refine their skills."
Car Stud offers a compact but thoughtful sport climb on a crisp granite face within the rugged confines of Elevenmile Canyon. Sitting on Turret Dome’s rightmost wall of a small cluster, this route delivers focused moves that reward finesse and control. From the base, the wall presents a clean, modestly overhanging surface that demands consistent footwork and precise hand placements. The first pitch begins with solid friction climbing, poised to test your balance as you ascend past well-placed bolts. A notable runout between the first and second bolts introduces a mental challenge, where a #2 Camalot placed in a horizontal seam provides a reassuring buffer against the exposure below. Just above the third bolt, a distinct crux section nudges the difficulty slightly higher, requiring a confident reach and smooth body tension. Beyond the fourth bolt, the route eases, offering a measured stroll to the anchors over the final 20 feet.
Set in the shadow of the better-known Guide's Route, Car Stud serves as a perfect warm-up or a technical alternative when the main wall is busy. The granite’s texture grips socks and shoes alike, coaxing you up a staircase of subtle holds and delicate smears. As the cliff basks in the sun through most of the day, it promises dry rock conditions and excellent visibility, especially in the spring and fall climbing seasons.
Access to the base is straightforward with a short approach from the main Elevenmile Canyon road, following a well-trodden path that winds around low brush and granite outcroppings. Careful timing is key—early mornings or late afternoons offer respite from midday heat and maximize grip on this exposed face.
Plan for five quickdraws plus your usual anchor setup, and bring a #2 Camalot to cover the sizable distance between the early bolts. A single 50-meter rope is sufficient for the rappel descent, though an alternative undeveloped by many involves traversing left along the ledge to set a top rope from adjacent climbs. This versatility makes Car Stud an appealing option for climbers seeking a solid 5.9 experience without high commitment or lengthy approach. Its combination of friction climbing, a sharp technical section, and a scenic granite backdrop crafts an engaging outing for climbers of varied skill levels who want to sharpen their skills while soaking in Colorado’s rugged mountain ambiance.
The runout between the first and second bolts presents a sizable gap with significant ground fall potential if not protected properly. Placing a #2 Camalot in the horizontal seam midway to the runout is critical for safety. Be mindful of sharp edges near the bolts and always double-check your anchors before descending.
Approach the climb early morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat and gain the best friction.
Bring a #2 Camalot to protect the lengthy runout section safely.
Use a 50-meter rope for both climbing and rappelling.
Consider traversing left after the anchors to set a top rope on nearby routes for extra practice.
Five quickdraws and an anchor are essential for clipping the bolts. A #2 Camalot is highly recommended to protect the runout between the first and second bolts in the horizontal seam, mitigating risk where the rock face exposes potential ground fall.
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