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Cajun Spice Girls: A Finger-Crack Adventure in Alabama Hills

Lone Pine, California United States
finger crack
face climbing
single pitch
trad protection
Alabama Hills
boulders
R-rated route
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cajun Spice Girls
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cajun Spice Girls challenges climbers with an engaging finger crack and delicate face moves in the heart of Alabama Hills. This single-pitch trad climb blends technical gear placements with an airy, exposed feel that tests both your hands and your head."

Cajun Spice Girls: A Finger-Crack Adventure in Alabama Hills

Cajun Spice Girls greets you with a blend of traditional climbing charm and subtle challenges tucked into the rugged rock of the Alabama Hills. This single-pitch route, stretching 80 feet, demands attention for its technical finger locks and delicate face climbing, all set against the stark, sun-bleached backdrop of Sierra Eastside’s Lone Pine area. The journey begins at the right edge of the corridor, sharing its start with the classic Dick See Chicks. Climbers climb up a chimney before veering left onto the massive boulder that leans naturally against the main formation. What follows is a thin crack that snakes upward and leftward, offering a variety of placements that test your gear judgment and finger strength. Here, the rock feels alive—the crack dares your hands to find hold while the face whispers of precise footwork and balance. A pair of bolts near the top provide security but are spaced wider than typical sport routes in the Alabama Hills, nudging you to trust your gear placements below.

This route carries an 'R' rating, signaling some risk primarily from poorly placed protection rather than extensive runouts. Placing protection requires a steady eye—small to medium nuts and some TCU size cams fit best, with micro cams available for those who prefer extra security. The rock’s subtle features often force thoughtful decisions on gear, rewarding climbers who approach with careful preparation and calm execution.

The approach itself is straightforward but active: the Alabama Hills demand respect not just for their climbing offerings, but for the open desert heat and stark elevation. The route is best tackled during the cooler hours of early morning or late afternoon when shadows stretch across the formations, tempering the sun’s intensity. Footwear with sticky rubber and good edging ability is a must given the face climbing portions, while hydration is critical under the high desert sun.

Cajun Spice Girls offers a direct taste of traditional climbing’s delicate balance of trust between body, rock, and gear. It’s a route where every finger lock feels earned and where the landscape around you—wide, arid, and surrounded by the Sierra Nevada’s towering presence—pushes your focus and skill forward. Whether you choose to lead this fine crack or set it up as a toprope by linking from the nearby What A Face anchors, the experience remains consistent: a practical, rewarding combination of adventure, technique, and the pure calcium carbonate grit that defines the Alabama Hills climbing.

Climber Safety

Protection can be tricky to position securely in the thin crack, and while bolts near the top add peace of mind, some gear placements below require vigilance. The single pitch length means leaders should be confident placing traditional gear and managing rope drag.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late to avoid high desert heat and sun exposure.

Bring gear for small to medium cams and nuts; micro cams are optional but useful.

Consider toproping from What A Face anchors for a lower-stress climb.

Sticky rubber shoes improve precision on the face climbing sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- grade sits on the easier side of the spectrum, but the route’s subtle crack and face climbing add nuance that can challenge newer lead climbers. The protection demands careful placement, which adds a mental edge beyond the physical difficulty. Compared to other area climbs, it feels like a softly graded technical challenge rather than a pure power test.

Gear Requirements

Small and medium nuts combined with TCU cams provide reliable protection. While micro cams are helpful for added coverage, the route can be climbed with solid traditional gear placements. Two bolts near the top offer extra security but are spaced wider apart than typical sport routes here.

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Tags

finger crack
face climbing
single pitch
trad protection
Alabama Hills
boulders
R-rated route