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Byrd's Classic: A Bold Trad Climb in East Animas

Durango, Colorado United States
trad
crack climb
multi-pitch
face climbing
exposed
East Animas
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Byrd's Classic
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Byrd's Classic offers two pitches of engaging trad climbing on the East Animas cliffs near Durango, blending crack systems with exposed face moves. It’s a route that invites climbers to test gear placement skills and mental focus in a vivid mountain setting."

Byrd's Classic: A Bold Trad Climb in East Animas

Byrd's Classic stands as a compelling test on the East Animas cliffs near Durango, Colorado, where exposed corners and delicate face climbing demand focus and finesse. This mostly two-pitch trad route offers a balanced experience for climbers ready to engage with sharp cracks and technical moves in a rugged mountain setting. The first pitch begins with a choice: either ascend the corner then skirt below a compact roof to the left, or take a more direct but demanding wide-hand crack rated 5.9 that leads straight up. Both lines converge into an intricate crack system that navigates beneath another overhang before angling right toward a splitter crack ending at a solid ledge equipped with a bolted anchor. This variety invites climbers to measure their approach depending on confidence and beta, providing a taste of classic West Slope climbing.

The second pitch, less frequented and noticeably unprotected, requires moving left from the belay tree and tackling a raw face with minimal gear placements. For those venturing here, it’s a bold move that adds a significant mental challenge to the climb, highlighting Byrd’s Classic’s adventurous nature. The rock carries the story of East Animas well—strong stone with rough textures that grip fingertips yet demand precise footwork.

Accessing the climb means heading toward East Animas, a well-loved area for locals, with approach trails cutting through dry forest and patches of scrub oak. The approach is straightforward, but it’s essential to layer for changing mountain air and carry enough water, as shade can be patchy, and exposure varies with the sun’s angle along the wall. The durability of the rock and the mixed protection gives a sense of security, though climbers should be ready to place cams confidently and carry a full East Animas rack up to a #3 Camalot to meet the route’s demands.

Byrd’s Classic offers an immersive introduction to Colorado’s quieter climbing corners without feeling remote or removed from civilization. Its proximity to Durango means a day spent here merges the thrill of technical trad climbing with accessible mountain surroundings. Plan your timing for early morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh sun on the face, enhancing comfort and grip. Be mindful on the descent: rappelling from fixed anchors or walking off with care is necessary, as the terrain below slopes steeply and can be loose.

For climbers seeking a route that blends straightforward vertical lines with moments that push mental resolve, Byrd’s Classic stands ready with textured holds and a compelling sequence of moves. It offers an entry point into East Animas’ rich climbing scene—an experience that feels both tackled and earned, where every hand jam and delicate smear brings you closer to the rugged cliffs above Durango’s high desert.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on pitch two due to minimal protection and exposed moves on an unprotected face. The anchors and gear placements require confident placements, and the descent route downhill can be steep and loose—stay alert during all transition phases of the climb.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length feet

Local Tips

Begin early or late to avoid full sun exposure on the face and conserve grip.

Carry sufficient water and dress in layers—the approach offers limited shade and can get hot midday.

Pay close attention when placing protection on pitch two; gear is sparse and requires confidence.

Plan your descent carefully; rappel anchors are available, but the walk-off involves steep, loose terrain.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Byrd's Classic leans on solid crack climbing with a moderately stiff direct start option at 5.9. The grade feels accurate and approachable for climbers with solid trad skills, but the sparse protection on the second pitch adds a seriousness that elevates the overall challenge beyond the number alone.

Gear Requirements

A standard East Animas rack is essential—including cams from finger sizes up to a #3 Camalot. For those opting to attempt the direct wide-hand crack start on pitch one (5.9), consider bringing an extra hand-sized cam to ensure secure placements.

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Tags

trad
crack climb
multi-pitch
face climbing
exposed
East Animas