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Bush League: Stepping Into the Raw in Cloudburst Canyon

South Lake Tahoe, California USA
finger crack
undercling
chimney moves
trad
single pitch
granite
lake tahoe
Length: 65 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bush League
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bush League challenges climbers with a direct finger crack that morphs into an unexpected undercling and finishes with chimney moves. This short trad climb blends technical touch with body tension on high-quality granite in scenic Cloudburst Canyon."

Bush League: Stepping Into the Raw in Cloudburst Canyon

Bush League presents an immediate call to action with its clear finger crack that demands precise hand jams and locked-off placements. This single-pitch trad route, stretching 65 feet, starts with a narrow, finger-width crack that prods you into focused climbing—each move measured, each hold essential. As your fingers settle into the pods, the rock feels alive beneath your palms, textured and demanding steady commitment. Beyond this, the route surprises with an unexpected undercling that swiftly tests your balance and core strength, flipping the rhythm from straightforward jamming to subtle body tension. The final section drifts rightward into chimneying moves that press you against the rock’s embrace, inviting a different kind of finesse before you reach the shared anchors known locally as Little Miss Manners.

Situated on the One Of These Days Buttress in Cloudburst Canyon, this climb benefits from the quiet pulse of the Woodfords Canyon ecosystem and the surrounding Sierra Nevada’s granite. The approach threads through light forest and high desert brush, offering a gradual climb up to the base. At around 38.76°N and -119.86°W, the climb is perched with scenic views overlooking Lake Tahoe’s vast expanse, a constant reminder of altitude and exposure.

The rock quality is good granite, with enough texture for reliable friction but some sections where vigilance is required to find the best placements. Protection is mostly straightforward, ranging from small cams to #3 Camalots, supplemented by medium-sized stoppers to secure tricky positions on the crack. The gear placements are solid but require awareness; some spots demand careful selection and patience to ensure safety during the more technical segments.

Cloudburst Canyon’s atmosphere is one of quiet intensity—wind flowing through pine and sagebrush, the distant hum of wildlife, and the rock’s cool surface warming under the mid-morning sun. Early season climbers will appreciate the balance of sun exposure and shade, with southern aspects illuminating the face by midday while still offering cool pockets before the heat can build too strongly.

Planning your ascent is straightforward, but preparation is key. Footwear with sticky rubber and a snug fit will pay dividends on the finger crack, while a harness rigged with a rack of small to medium cams sets you up for smooth protection transitions. Hydrate early and consider the time of day; starting before midday reduces exposure to the peak sun and mitigates overheating risks. The descent is a short walk off following a scrambly but secure trail along the buttress edge.

Bush League provides a concise, intense climbing experience. It’s a sharp test of technique and composure—an inviting entry point for trad climbers stepping into more challenging grades, or a quick but rewarding venture for those wanting to savor hand jams, subtle underclings, and chimneying in one tight package. This climb encourages respect for its features and demands command over crack climbing fundamentals, all set against the high-desert beauty of the Lake Tahoe backcountry.

Climber Safety

While protection placements are generally reliable, the undercling move requires careful positioning to avoid pump and unexpected slips. Pay close attention during chimney moves, where loose bits of rock can be occasional hazards. The descent involves a short but tricky walk off that demands situational awareness to avoid scrapes or lost footing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length65 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid mid-afternoon sun and overheating.

Wear sticky-soled shoes for secure finger crack jams.

Bring a standard trad rack focused on small to medium cams and stoppers.

Scout the shared anchors beforehand to familiarize with descent route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Bush League holds a classic grade with a clear crux at the undercling section where body tension and balance spike the difficulty. Unlike some climbs where the grade feels soft, this route demands full engagement through the finger crack and technical transitions, making it feel right on point for steady intermediate climbers comfortable with hand jams and smearing. Compared to nearby routes, the chimney finish adds a unique touch of complexity.

Gear Requirements

Equip small cams up to a #3 Camalot and medium stoppers. Placement zones are reliable but require thoughtful selection, especially near the undercling and chimney sections.

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Tags

finger crack
undercling
chimney moves
trad
single pitch
granite
lake tahoe