"Bush & Dirt Crack stands out as a two-pitch trad climb on Jabba Buttress offering classic finger cracks and technical offwidth moves. This route combines approachable difficulty with solid protection, making it a rewarding objective for crack lovers seeking a manageable multi-pitch adventure."
Bush & Dirt Crack carves its way up the eastern face of Jabba Buttress, offering climbers a solid two-pitch trad climb that blends technical finger jams and careful offwidth moves. Situated in the rugged La Plata Mountains near Durango, Colorado, this route welcomes adventurers seeking a moderate but engaging outing away from the crowded sport climbs dominating the area. The first pitch makes a memorable introduction: you’ll start by threading your fingers into broad huecos, hugging the right-facing corner that sweeps past a tight, low roof before opening into a finger crack that demands precise body positioning to protect and ascend efficiently. At about 5.7 difficulty, it's approachable but demands attention to footwork and crack technique.
The second pitch nudges you slightly right on a narrow ledge before pushing upward through a short but steeper flake hand crack rated 5.7+. Both pitches finish at bolted anchors, ideal for safe transitions or belay swaps. This climb shines in its straightforward yet varied crack sequences, appealing to climbers refining their crack climbing skills or looking to add a reliable trad line to their repertoire. Protection is fairly standard with an East Animas rack, including a critical #2 Camalot for the wider sections — placements are solid but require a keen eye for gear placement in constricted spaces.
Getting to the route is relatively straightforward, accessed via easy trails around the Animas River corridor. The climbing wall catches morning sun, warming cold hands early but offering some afternoon shade—a perfect balance for spring through early fall ascents. After topping out, descent is handled efficiently with a single 60-meter rope rappel from fixed anchors, dropping you back to base quickly, or if you’re eager, continuing along the adjacent "Steve Likes Offwidth" to extend the adventure.
For those planning a day at Jabba Buttress, footwear with sticky rubber and comfortable flexibility is a must to manage both smears on slabby sections and precise jams. Hydration packs are handy here; while the approach is moderate distance, the dry Colorado air sneaks up on you. Best to start climbs early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in the summer. Climbers new to multi-pitch trad routes will find this a great introduction, combining the thrill of solid crack climbing with manageable logistics.
In all, Bush & Dirt Crack is a hands-on journey into traditional climbing that balances technical flair with accessible terrain. It invites both fresh crack climbers and seasoned trad enthusiasts to engage with the rock under clear Colorado skies, fostering confidence and rewarding persistence with satisfying moves and secure protection.
While the route is well-protected, climbers should be cautious with rope management on the traversing ledge of pitch two. The rock is solid but watch for loose debris near the ledge during descent. Also, be mindful of sudden weather shifts typical of the region—lightning and rain hits with little warning in the afternoons.
Start climbs early to avoid afternoon storms common in summer.
Bring sticky rubber shoes for optimal grip on crack and slab sections.
Hydrate well before and during the climb – the Colorado air is dry and elevates dehydration risk.
A single 60m rope suffices for a smooth rappel from the top of pitch two.
A standard East Animas rack covers the gear needs here, with #2 Camalot being essential for the wider cracks. Protection placements are solid but require attention, especially on the finger cracks where fitting cams precisely pays off.
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