"Burrito Bandito is a gritty 105-foot trad climb on a knobby vertical face just above the Melting Wall apron. Packed with unique knob features to sling and protect around, it challenges climbers with precise moves and a steady hand, perfect for those ready to add variety to their trad sessions in the Southern Sierra."
Burrito Bandito carves a spirited path up a bold, knobby stretch on the Melting Wall, part of the Lost Eagle area tucked within California’s Southern Sierra. This single-pitch trad climb offers 105 feet of hands-on friction and careful protection, demanding a steady approach to knob-slinging moves that test both grip and gear placement. From the base, the face rises sharply, its wild texture stamped with rounded patina that shifts into a rhythm of well-defined knobs, each a rock feature begging to be wrapped with a sling or trusted to secure a nut or small cam.
Starting just left of the twin seams that mark the 5.10b route Prolly Bomber, Burrito Bandito diverges into a terrain where movement is less about flawless jugs and more about feeling your way across natural holds. The climb leads straight up, soon rewarding with a burrito-shaped knob that becomes a landmark mid-ascent and a crucial protection point. Traversing slightly left afterward, climbers find a sequence of side pulls that demand precision handwork and an eye for tight nut placements amid the closely packed patina.
Above the nest of knobs, the rock eases slightly—climbing becomes less about strength and more about balance and route-finding. The knobs grow larger here, offering better holds and relief after the initial technical section. The final destination is a small ledge equipped with two-bolt ring anchors, a safe haven from which to descend. A 70-meter rope will reach from this point, but barely—rappelling requires careful rope management to avoid snagging.
Planning Burrito Bandito means equipping yourself with plenty of slings to wrap those ever-present knobs, alongside a solid rack emphasizing nuts #3 through #6 and small cams like Aliens for less obvious placements. The approach is straightforward, but the climb’s rough, knobby texture demands attention to hand and foot placement, rewarding focus with a unique blend of physicality and calm, strategic movement. Whether this is your first trad lead or a solid addition to your Southern Sierra climbing repertoire, Burrito Bandito offers both challenge and charm close to the popular Melting Wall apron area.
The climb’s rough knobs are a blessing for holds but demand consistent sling security; loose or poorly placed slings can result in dangerous falls. Additionally, the descent requires attention—rappelling off two-bolt ring anchors with a rope that just reaches calls for careful rope flaking and backup checks.
Start just left of Prolly Bomber’s parallel seams to find the right line.
Pay close attention to sling positioning — the knobs vary in shape and size.
Use smaller cams for tight placements among the tightly spaced patina patches.
Plan for a careful rappelling setup as 70 meters barely covers the descent.
Bring plenty of slings to secure the many distinctive knobs. A rack heavy on nuts (#3 to #6) and small cams such as Aliens is essential for dependable protection. A 70-meter rope is just long enough for the rappel from the two-bolt ring anchors at the top.
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