Bugaboo Corner stands as a compelling journey deep into the heart of the Purcell Mountains, where rugged alpine terrain challenges both skill and spirit. This route intertwines traditional and aid climbing across 17 pitches stretching nearly 2000 feet up Snowpatch Spire’s iconic face. The climb invites adventurers to engage with commanding chimneys and delicate cracks—features that once sparked exhilaration for early pioneers like Ted Davies, Pat Derouin, and Ian Rowe, who helped define alpine climbing in British Columbia.

The approach greets you with the quiet strength of the Columbia Mountains, where tall evergreens watch over winding trails and whisper promises of solitude. As you set foot on the base, the spire looms with jagged granite promising demanding moves and classic alpine exposure. The line’s rating of 5.9 C1 indicates a blend of free climbing with sections reliant on aid gear—players must be comfortable placing pro within tight, sometimes awkward cracks, and managing aid ascents that push technique and patience.

Gear up for a climb that tests versatility: thin crack placements within the chimney demand small nuts and cams, while aid sections require standard C1 equipment like hooks and etriers. The granite here is generally solid, but expect some careful gear scouting on the inner chimney walls as the first ascent team did. Protection is earned, and the sense of accomplishment grows as you navigate the intersection of natural fissures and alpine finesse.

The exposed setting rewards with panoramic views that evolve pitch by pitch—the rugged Bugaboos stretch into the distance, peaks and glaciers catching the afternoon sun. The altitude and varied terrain also call for careful planning: bring layered clothing, ensure durable footwear suited for mixed alpine surfaces, and pack ample water. Early season conditions can be unpredictable, so monitor weather closely and start early to avoid afternoon storms common in these mountains.

Descent involves a series of rappels or downclimbing options depending on conditions—familiarity with alpine descent techniques is essential to safely retreat, as the terrain below remains complex and steep. Overall, Bugaboo Corner delivers a demanding climb infused with history, technical challenge, and the raw beauty of British Columbia’s alpine wilderness. For climbers seeking a full alpine experience with a touch of aid climbing and solid trad, this route offers a memorable, hands-on encounter with one of the region’s most cherished pillars.