"Buffalo Chips offers a crisp 70-foot slab climb in Colorado’s San Luis Valley, combining precise smearing with a bulgy crux. Ideal for climbers sharpening their technique, this moderate 5.9 sport route blends the demands of technical footwork with approachable terrain and striking desert views."
Carved sharply into the dramatic contours of Colorado's San Luis Valley, Buffalo Chips stands as a compelling introduction to technical sport climbing on finely sculpted slabs. This single-pitch route stretches approximately 70 feet, following a steady diagonal line up a blocky, angled face. The rock demands precise footwork—smearing across smooth surfaces and locking into subtle edges—with a bulging crux near the top that tests both balance and resolve before reaching the fixed anchor.
Approaching the route, you’ll find yourself beside an unmistakable drainage feature to the right, where Buffalo Chips breaks cleanly through the middle of the slab. The feature delivers consistent, moderate difficulty that appeals to climbers eager to sharpen their slab technique or work confidently through 5.9 terrain. Despite its moderate rating, the climb requires a focused effort to negotiate the tricky crux; here, power meets grace as each movement must be deliberate.
Buffalo Chips thrives on its simplicity and efficiency—just half a dozen quickdraws and a single rope are all you need to enjoy this straightforward yet satisfying line. The route’s clean rock and solid bolts provide security, while the dry desert air of the San Luis Valley sharpens your senses, making every smear feel immediate and distinct. The canyon itself opens wide views of surrounding mesas and distant peaks, grounding the climb in a setting that encourages quiet concentration paired with awe for the expansive landscape.
The approach is approachable but grounded in rugged terrain; hikers will spend a brief 10 to 15 minutes navigating uneven ground across a mixture of sandy patches and rock outcrops to reach the base of the slab. Given the open exposure and western-facing orientation of this wall, late morning to mid-afternoon offers the best light and warmth, especially in spring and fall when the sun comfortably spills over the rock without overwhelming heat.
Whether you’re new to sport climbing or seeking a reliable test for technical footwork on compact rock, Buffalo Chips delivers. The trailhead sits near the Rock Garden area, accessible via straightforward driving directions in the valley. With twenty votes reflecting steady local appreciation, it’s clear this route holds a quiet place in the region’s climbing scene—a perfect blend of challenge and accessibility, without the crowds.
In preparation, bring steady shoes with precise edging capability, plenty of water for the dry climate, and a mindset ready for technical finesse rather than brute strength. This route rewards patience and control, every foothold an opportunity.
Buffalo Chips is more than just a route; it's a tactile dance with the rock where every step demands attention, and every hold invites quiet focus. It’s a prime spot to hone your slab skills, test your technique, and enjoy the rugged beauty of Colorado’s high desert playground.
The route’s slab nature requires careful, deliberate foot placements—fall potential is high on slippery smears near the crux if commitment wavers. Watch for loose gravel near the base and ensure your rope is positioned clear of sharp edges.
Approach takes 10-15 minutes over mixed rocky and sandy terrain—sturdy footwear recommended.
Late morning to mid-afternoon offers optimal climbing conditions with balanced sun and shade.
The route is equipped with solid bolts; no additional trad gear needed.
Bring ample water as the dry air and desert heat can dehydrate you quickly.
Essential gear includes half a dozen quickdraws and a single climbing rope to manage the 70-foot pitch with fixed anchors in place.
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