"Broadside presents a comprehensive alpine trad route on The Ship’s Prow, weaving through mixed rock quality and technical crack climbing over 14 demanding pitches. Ideal for climbers wanting to earn every move in the heart of Alberta’s Bow Valley wilderness."
Set against the rugged northwest face of The Ship's Prow in Alberta’s Bow Valley, Broadside offers an authentic alpine trad experience spanning 14 pitches and roughly 1800 feet of varied terrain. This route demands a steady head as it weaves through shifting rock quality and changing crack systems, rewarding climbers with a genuine sense of progression and exposure. Starting well right of the two dominant corners, climbers begin on a right-trending crack, pushing through a modest bulge before moving through a mix of blocky, loose sections and broken ground. The early pitches test route-finding and patience over easier, less stable rock that dares you forward, while gradually the wall firms up and finger cracks open, inviting more secure placements and sharper movements.
Higher up, Broadside’s character sharpens. Transitioning into well-defined corners and chimneys, the climbing flows with a rhythm familiar to those who favor traditional protection and alpine challenges. Each pitch leads you closer to the top, where an exposed face climb demands focus, including a roof move that punctuates the route’s technical crescendo. The crux sections feel justifiably earned, with the 5.9 pitches presenting moves that require smarts and steady feet rather than brute strength. Gear placements—while generally straightforward—require mindfulness, especially where the route negotiates loose, blocky segments. A standard rack suffices, though pins might get you a safer ride through some of the trickier sections.
Beyond the climbing itself, the route sits within a stark and soaring wilderness backdrop. The approach introduces you to Bow Valley’s northern mountain silhouette, the sharp angles of The Ship’s Prow giving a raw edge to the skyline. Ambient sounds shift from quiet birdsong to the faint echo of the wind threading through rocky ledges. The rock seems to breathe here, creaking subtly underfoot as if the mountain itself is testing your resolve.
Preparation is paramount. The length demands endurance and steady pacing, so bring ample water, layer for unpredictable alpine weather, and trust your footwork on varied terrain—from loose dirt at the base to polished granite higher up. Early season attempts benefit from a late spring or summer window that offers stable conditions and avoids spring runoff that can dampen rock and increase risk. Descending via a careful walk-off or rappel requires attention to detail—not just to avoid loose rock but also to maintain awareness amid often shifting weather patterns.
Broadside is not for the faint-hearted but rewards those who seek a genuine alpine trad climb with a satisfying blend of technical moves, route-finding challenges, and a landscape that demands respect. Each pitch invites you to read the rock and trust your skill, engaging both body and mind until you reach the summit’s exposed finish and the sweeping views beyond.
Loose rock and blocky sections on the lower pitches can dislodge unexpectedly; climbers should wear helmets and communicate clearly during team moves. The descent involves tricky terrain where slipping is a hazard, especially if rock is wet or icy.
Approach early in the day to avoid afternoon rockfall hazards as temperatures rise.
Bring sturdy alpine boots and sticky climbing shoes to handle the mixed terrain.
Hydrate well—there are no reliable water sources on the climb or approach.
Check weather closely; conditions can shift rapidly in the Bow Valley alpine.
A standard trad rack covers the essentials, with placements mostly straightforward but requiring attentiveness on loose, blocky sections. Pins could prove useful in a few tricky spots to supplement protection.
Upload your photos of Broadside and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.