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Brian's Arete: A Classic 5.9 Sport Climb on Company Wall

Colorado Springs, Colorado United States
arete
sport
technical
exposed
single pitch
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Brian's Arete
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Brian's Arete offers a clean, well-protected 5.9 sport climb along a prominent arete at Company Wall. Perfectly placed bolts and a striking position make it a must-try line for climbers seeking sharp, technical moves in North Cheyenne Canyon."

Brian's Arete: A Classic 5.9 Sport Climb on Company Wall

Rising sharply from the heart of North Cheyenne Canyon, Brian's Arete commands attention with its clean, prominent spine carved into the Company Wall. This single-pitch sport climb, stretching a solid 60 feet, offers climbers an inviting challenge at a 5.9 grade, balanced between technical finesse and accessible movement. The route's defining feature is the bold arete itself, which you access by stepping off the mellow slab on its left side—this transition sets the tone, blending balance with a touch of exposure. Along the ascent, five well-placed bolts provide confident protection, leading smoothly to a secure two-bolt anchor atop the arete.

The Company Wall’s position within North Cheyenne Canyon ensures that your climb is complemented by sweeping views of Colorado Springs nestled below, with the canyon’s mixed forest breathing quietly around you. Early morning sun warms the rock’s texture, enhancing friction and making foot placements crisp; afternoon climbs benefit from partial shade, keeping the route manageable even on warmer days. This aspect also means the climb dries quickly after precipitation, inviting sprightly ascents soon after rain.

For those preparing for Brian's Arete, approach logistics are straightforward but rewarding. A brief hike from the North Cheyenne Canyon parking area takes roughly 15-20 minutes along well-worn paths that meander through fir and pine stands, the scent of fresh mountain air punctuating the walk. Shoes with sticky rubber and balanced edging capabilities will pay dividends on the slabby moves and the arete’s sharper edges. Bringing a standard sport rack alongside your quickdraws will be enough, but remain mindful of the positional nature of the first bolt — a committed step onto the arete is necessary right from the start.

Safety-wise, the rock is sound, yet the route offers only minimal rest opportunities on the vertical prow, so climbers should be prepared for sustained moves that require steady footwork and focus. The high initial bolt encourages precise clipping practice, so knowing how to manage rope drag on narrow features can make the difference between a smooth run and frustrating stalls. Descend with care via the installed rappel anchors or downclimb if conditions allow, avoiding loose debris at the base.

Brian's Arete is a reliable, crowd-pleasing climb that blends straightforward sport protection with a classic line that holds the character of North Cheyenne’s granite walls. It’s an ideal introduction for climbers looking to push into the 5.9 range with confidence, while seasoned local climbers find a dependable route offering crisp climbing and rewarding exposure. Whether chased in quiet solitude or during the lively weekend rush, it stands as a testament to Colorado Springs’ approachable yet compelling climbing scene.

Climber Safety

The route’s first bolt sits relatively high, necessitating a secure and committed step onto the arete. Rock quality is solid but remain aware of potential rope drag. Descend with care using rappel anchors or a careful downclimb to avoid loose scree at the base.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach from the North Cheyenne Canyon parking lot for the quickest access.

Best climbed in the morning to avoid afternoon heat; the wall gains shade by midday.

Sticky rubber shoes and precise footwork improve performance on the slab-to-arete transition.

Double-check quickdraw placements on the high first bolt for smooth clipping.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade feels well-calibrated with no unexpected cruxes but requires focused movement on the arete, making it feel slightly stiff compared to nearby 5.8 routes. Climbers familiar with North Cheyenne’s moderate slab and face climbs will find this route comfortably challenging yet approachable.

Gear Requirements

Five bolts secure the route with a two-bolt anchor at the top for a safe and straightforward top-rope or lead setup. The elevated first bolt demands a confident step onto the arete, requiring steady body positioning from the outset.

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Tags

arete
sport
technical
exposed
single pitch