"Blunt Arete to Exit presents a sharp two-pitch trad climb on Lookout Mountain’s granite, weaving through challenging slab moves and complex protection. Perfect for climbers seeking a technical route that tests gear skills and composure above the infamous Offwidth Corner."
Blunt Arete to Exit offers a focused, gritty trad climbing experience that challenges both your protection skills and route-finding instincts. Located on the C. Middle and West Walls of Lookout Mountain near Golden, Colorado, this two-pitch route skirts above the precarious Offwidth Corner, giving climbers a practical alternative to trundling unstable flakes. Its 90 feet stretch presents a blend of slabby movement, technical protection sequences, and a demanding exit traverse that tests reach and composure.
Starting from an alcove adjacent to the Small Axe route, the first pitch invites careful gear placement. Placing a green Alien in a narrow crack sets the tone before moving onto slab terrain peppered with uncertain cams. The face requires a confident step-up over a minor bulge rated 5.7 R, where boldness pays off; the rock demands precise footwork and controlled balance. Moving rightward opens up bigger holds and a high step up a subtle overlap, easing into the blunt arete crest for a belay station perched about 35 feet above Offwidth Corner.
Pitch two ups the ante with a more complex exit traverse. After ascending a short boulder, the line turns into a corner before a rightward lateral move toward Small Axe’s anchors. This section feels significantly more demanding for shorter climbers due to the extended reach and tricky moves, so managing creative placements—as with a discreet wire and downward-facing blue Alien—is critical to staying protected. The final approach to the anchor involves a slight downward step, rewarding persistence with solid belay gear and a moment to catch your breath.
Gear selection plays a key role on this route. Expect to rely heavily on green Aliens, a combo of #0.1 and #0.2 Camalots with some placements questionable enough to keep mental sharpness engaged. The anchor systems blend fixed threaded slings with removable wires, necessitating thorough knowledge of traditional protection strategies. The mix of 'iffy' placements underscores the importance of carrying a well-rounded rack and maintaining trust in your gear choices.
The climb’s setting on Lookout Mountain situates climbers within a well-loved local crag complex known for solid granite faces with varying degrees of protection challenges. Accessibility from Golden means the approach is straightforward—an easy walk from the Lookout Mountain Road—with enough exposure in the lower tier to feel fully immersed in the vertical world without steep or technical scrambling.
For timing, spring through early fall is best when the wall’s orientation invites comfortable sunlight in the morning and shade in the afternoon, keeping the rock perfectly textured for friction. Cooler months may introduce slickness, especially on slab moves, so plan accordingly. Descent generally involves carefully downclimbing or scrambling back along established trails, emphasizing caution near the offwidth and traverse zones to avoid loose rock.
In summary, Blunt Arete to Exit is a compact route demanding both mental and physical agility. It's a compelling choice for alpine trad enthusiasts who appreciate tight gear sequences, slab-style climbing, and challenging protection. This is not a beginner’s playground but a test of skill and patience on Lookout Mountain’s exposed granite edges.
Watch for tricky, unreliable gear placements especially near the minor bulge on pitch one and the traverse on pitch two. Loose rock around the exit traverse requires caution, and the downclimb demands attention to avoid dislodging debris or slipping.
Start from the Small Axe alcove to find the initial cracks and slab moves cleanly.
Be prepared for protection placements that demand patience and creativity, especially on the first pitch.
The exit traverse on pitch two is reachy; shorter climbers should plan moves carefully and keep gear handy.
Descend via downclimbing carefully—loose rock can lurk near the offwidth and traverse sections.
Bring green Aliens and a selection of Camalots (#0.1, #0.2, #0.5, #0.75, #1) to navigate the slabby cracks. The anchors rely on threaded slings and wires, so come prepared to build solid belays with a mix of removable and fixed gear.
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