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Blastoff Climb on Falcon Buttress

South Platte, Colorado United States
hands crack
chimney
slabby terrain
long slings
multi-pitch
trad gear
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Blastoff
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Blastoff on Falcon Buttress is a dynamic two-pitch trad climb featuring hands-width cracks and a challenging chimney section before a final slab finish. Perfect for intermediate climbers wanting solid protection with a rewarding summit retreat."

Blastoff Climb on Falcon Buttress

Blastoff commands attention on Falcon Buttress, positioned within the rugged Tarryall foothills just outside South Platte, Colorado. This trad climb offers two pitches that balance hands-on crack work with slabby face climbing, creating a route that’s both approachable and engaging for intermediate climbers. The first pitch introduces you to a thin, right-angling crack that demands steady footwork on slabby terrain, leading to a narrow ledge tucked just before the main crack system. From here, a hands-width crack climbs steeply, peppered with good protection opportunities, pushing you toward a small alcove where a secure gear belay can be established. The rock feels solid underhand and hand jams, rewarding precise placements and focus.

The second pitch extends upward, where the crack begins to lean left and evolve into a chimney wide enough to accommodate larger cams—bring your biggest gear here. The chimney’s unique rhythm requires managing both body positioning and protection; long slings come in handy to reduce rope drag as you ascend. Beyond this, the climb transitions to a 5.7 slab section that’s runout, testing your mental edge before you reach the summit. The top anchors are bolted, offering a reliable finish to this moderate adventure.

Blastoff can be enjoyed as a two-pitch route or combined into one extended move for those eager to push endurance. The descent is straightforward but demands care: rappels from the summit off two 60-meter ropes run straight down the main face, a clean rappel between Blastoff and the adjacent corner system. Efficient rope management here will save time and energy, especially if climbing with a partner.

The environment around Falcon Buttress is framed by open skies and the distinctive Colorado high-country feel, with pine-fringed approaches and crisp mountain air that sharpens the senses. While the rock offers solid protection opportunities, climbers should be prepared for the chimney’s tricky placements and possible rope drag on longer slings. Timing your climb earlier in the day helps avoid the south-facing wall’s afternoon sun, which can bake the slab sections.

Bringing plenty of water, sturdy shoes with reliable friction, and a varied rack including large cams and long slings will ensure you are ready for Blastoff’s diverse challenges. The approach trail is manageable but requires navigation through mixed terrain; give yourself extra time to scope your gear and settle into the climb. For trad climbers aiming to sharpen crack skills while soaking in panoramic views, Blastoff stands out as a rewarding outing that blends technical climbing with a strong sense of place. This route offers a measured climb, perfect for those ready to step beyond beginner cracks into more committing slab and chimney territory.

Climber Safety

The chimney section requires careful protection placements with large cams; rope drag can make moves feel more strenuous, so managing slings effectively is critical. Additionally, descending involves a two-rope rappel from bolted anchors—check anchors thoroughly and ensure your ropes are long enough for a safe rappel. Loose rock is minimal but remain alert on the slab finish, especially if the surface is wet or covered with debris.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the south-facing wall.

Bring extra long slings for extending placements in the chimney.

Double-check anchor bolts at the top before rappelling.

Plan for a 2-rope rappel down the main face to reach the base safely.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating on Blastoff feels fair overall, with a moderately challenging chimney that demands good technique and the ability to place large cams. The final slab section at 5.7 adds a mental crux due to runout nature but does not push technical limits. Compared to nearby routes, this climb offers a balanced progression from hand-sized cracks to wider chimneys, suitable for those looking to advance their trad climbing skills without an overly stiff grade.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack including cams up to size #4 for chimney protection. Long slings are strongly recommended to manage rope drag on the chimney and slab sections.

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Tags

hands crack
chimney
slabby terrain
long slings
multi-pitch
trad gear