Black Magic Draino offers a straightforward yet rewarding introduction to crack climbing in the heart of Colorado’s Canyon Road Cliffs. From the moment your hands find purchase on the rough rock, the climb demands engagement with its playful stemming and pocketed holds. The route follows a clear, clean crack that challenges you to shift technique as the features change. Where the face's texture fades, the crack widens inviting you into solid jams and secure handlocks that define the final moves.

This single-pitch climb extends 65 feet, delivering a compact but satisfying experience where gear placements feel intuitive and well-protected. Protection ranges from smaller cams—sizes 0.5 through #2—to an optional larger piece (#4) for anchoring. The climb gives you the option of clipping into a gear anchor on the left at the top or using a sturdy tree positioned to the right, providing flexibility for setting your belay.

The setting amplifies the raw appeal of this moderate 5.9 route: Witches’ Canyon exposes its layered volcanic rock in broad faces that soak up the sun, offering warmth and drying rapidly even after damp weather. As you ascend, the canyon’s vertical walls gently fold around you, filtering light through scattered pines and hinting at the wider San Luis Valley’s rugged edges beyond.

Access is straightforward, with the approach trail cut through open terrain leading directly to the base of the cliff. The ground underfoot is a mix of firm dirt and loose rock, typical for this desert mountain environment, so sturdy footwear is essential. Early morning or late afternoon climbs provide the best light and temperature balance, as the canyon bakes in midday sun.

For climbers chasing a solid crack climb without the complications of multi-pitch logistics, Black Magic Draino delivers a clean and rewarding experience. The route’s clear line and reliable protection make it suitable for trad climbers honing their crack skills or visitors seeking an accessible taste of Colorado’s expansive climbing regions. With its practical beta, easily manageable gear requirements, and concise length, this climb invites thoughtful preparation paired with the thrill of climbing a natural crack that demands focus and technique.

Be sure to carry enough water, especially during warmer months, and consider leaving earlier or later in the day to avoid peak sun exposure. Fresh tape for your hands can make the pocketed moves more comfortable and protect skin on the rough volcanic stone. While the route feels solid underfoot and hand, always double-check gear placements and anchors, particularly if you choose the tree option for your belay. This modest yet engaging climb rewards attention to detail and appreciation of classic crack climbing mechanics set against Colorado’s quiet, vast landscapes.