"Black Friday offers a dynamic 90-foot sport climb on Thanksgiving Cliff’s high desert walls, featuring a thin crux that demands precision. Perfect for those seeking an accessible yet technical single-pitch climb with solid protection and expansive desert views."
Black Friday delivers an engaging 90-foot climb that threads its way up the rugged stone faces of Thanksgiving Cliff, part of the Monastery Crags complex in California’s High Desert. This single-pitch sport route offers a blend of steady movement punctuated by a slender crux that will test your focus and finger strength early on. The route’s character lies in its shifting rhythm as it snakes through undulating terrain, requiring precise footwork and a measured approach. The rock here is sunbaked and solid, providing reliable holds, but the route demands vigilance—especially in the first half where the thin crux challenges climbers to stay sharp.
As you ascend, the surrounding landscape reveals the classic High Desert environment: sparse vegetation clinging to rocky plateaus and sharp silhouettes of nearby spires cutting against an expansive sky. The sun casts long shadows across the cliff in the afternoon, warming the rock but also highlighting the subtle breaks and ledges you’ll negotiate. The climb’s bolt protection ensures confidence, but be aware that the belayer must stay alert—too much slack can lead to landing on a ledge below the crux in the event of a fall.
Black Friday is accessible yet rewarding, suited for climbers comfortable at 5.9 who want a taste of desert sport climbing with a technical edge. The approach is straightforward, with well-maintained trails leading to the base, making it a fitting high desert venture for anyone looking to sharpen their lead skills or enjoy a single-pitch challenge with solid rock and reasonable protection.
Gear essentials include a standard sport rack with quickdraws and attention to anchor setup at the top, where a mussy hook combined with a lower-off station rounds out the top-rope or rap options. Afternoon climbs are ideal to avoid the intense morning sun, and watch for loose rock near the belay stance to keep the ascent safe and controlled. Whether you’re carving out an afternoon crack at Thanksgiving Cliff or adding a solid route to your desert portfolio, Black Friday balances challenge, quality rock, and the open high desert environment into one compact climb.
Watch your rope management on lead—too much slack near the crux can result in trailing a fall onto a ledge below. The mussy hook anchor is reliable but inspect it carefully for wear. Be aware of loose rock near the belay stance that can pose hazards during cleaning or lowering.
Keep your belayer alert to maintain tension and avoid excessive slack near ledges.
Aim to climb in the afternoon to benefit from partial shade and cooler rock.
Wear sturdy approach shoes for the short but rocky trail to the base.
Check the mussy hook and lower-off for wear before cleaning or lowering.
Bolted route with a mussy hook anchor and established lower-off. Bring standard quickdraws and double-check your anchor rigging for a safe top-rope or rappel.
Upload your photos of Black Friday and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.