"Thanksgiving Cliff offers accessible sport routes with morning sun and afternoon shade, nestled close to Monastery South parking in California’s High Desert. Climbers can enjoy moderate climbs ranging from 70 to 90 feet, with reliable wind protection and a quick approach trail for efficient days on the rock."
Thanksgiving Cliff offers an inviting climbing experience just steps from the parking lot at Monastery South, making it one of the most accessible crags in California’s High Desert. The cliff’s main face turns northeast, catching the gentle warmth of morning sun while retreating to pleasant afternoon shade. This natural rhythm provides a comfortable environment through much of the year, making it ideal for climbers looking to escape midday heat without sacrificing daylight. The routes, ranging from 70 to 90 feet in height, cater largely to moderate climbers but retain a solid challenge for all skill levels. Around the right side of the main face, a handful of shorter climbs face northwest, soaking up late afternoon sun—perfect for ending your day with a few warm laps.
The approach trail to Thanksgiving Cliff is straightforward and quick, starting near a collection of boulders at the hill’s base beneath the cliff itself. This short trek means more time on the rock and less time hiking, a coveted aspect for climbers here. The elevation of the area sits at 3,243 feet, providing a high desert atmosphere that blends arid expanses with stands of resilient desert flora. Weather here swings with clear skies and minimal precipitation for large parts of the climbing season, offering long windows of dry conditions to hit the granite faces.
Classic climbs at Thanksgiving Cliff include routes like Turkey Trot (5.7), Jimmy Dean (5.8), Pull the Bird (5.9), and Lumpy Gravy (5.10b). Each holds a special place among the local community, providing diverse challenges on solid rock with protective anchors. Though the grades cluster around moderate difficulties, the ratings at Thanksgiving Cliff are generally straightforward, making it a welcoming venue for those progressing through the 5.7 to 5.10 range. The area doesn’t have the high-end extreme climbs of other desert crags, but it rewards consistency and good technique.
Despite the desert setting, the main cliff benefits from reliable wind protection thanks to its orientation and natural formations around it. Morning arrivals meet sunlight enlightening the rock, while afternoons bring cooling shade, protecting climbers from the harshest rays and helping maintain friction on the granite surface. For those seeking sun late in the day, the northwest-facing routes on the right side deliver just that, a small but appreciated bonus.
Protection on Thanksgiving Cliff leans toward sport climbing, with well-maintained fixed anchors on most routes. While gear specifics aren't detailed in the available information, climbers should approach with a full sport rack, including draws and standard rope setups. The short approach and solid anchors mean this crag works well for a quick day trip or a relaxed half-day session.
Descending from Thanksgiving Cliff is straightforward. Most climbers rappel from bolts at the top, though some routes may be downclimbable for those comfortable with moderate exposure. As always, careful attention to anchor security and rappel set-ups is essential. The proximity to parking also aids a smooth exit, reducing strain after a long day of climbing.
Located within the Monastery Crags area near Lucerne Valley, Thanksgiving Cliff benefits from the broad High Desert setting’s quiet and openness. Its close access and manageable climbing draw a steady crowd, but the sense of space remains intact. Visitors can expect sweeping views framed by desert landscape and protected by the surrounding hills—a fitting backdrop to a day spent pushing upward.
Whether you’re warming up on the moderate classic routes or chasing a brief afternoon sun on the flank, Thanksgiving Cliff balances approachable climbing with scenery and simplicity. It’s a dependable spot for those eager to get on rock early or extend their session into fading daylight, a practical choice for desert climbers looking for solid moderate challenges and easy access.
While the approach is short and manageable, climbers should always verify the condition of fixed anchors before relying on them. The desert environment can cause significant temperature fluctuations, so staying hydrated and prepared for heat is crucial. Rappels require attention to anchor integrity and rope management to ensure a safe descent.
Start early to take advantage of morning sun on the northeast face.
Bring layers for cooler afternoon shade and desert temperature swings.
Use the routes on the right side for late afternoon climbs with afternoon sun.
Check anchors carefully and prepare for straightforward rappels or easy downclimbs.
Routes feature fixed anchors suitable for sport climbing. A standard sport rack with draws and rope is recommended for ascent and rappel. Short approach reduces gear hauling effort.
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