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Black Bunny Rabbit: A Granite Sprint on Mother's Buttress

Grand Junction, Colorado USA
hand-drilled bolts
granite
single pitch
sharp cactus
dry approach
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Black Bunny Rabbit
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Black Bunny Rabbit offers an approachable yet carefully crafted sport climb on Unaweep Canyon’s granite. Its single 80-foot pitch packs solid, hand-drilled bolts, demanding focus and respect, especially at the prickly, uneven landing zone."

Black Bunny Rabbit: A Granite Sprint on Mother's Buttress

Black Bunny Rabbit delivers a brisk, yet engaging pitch of sport climbing along the granite walls of Mother's Buttress in Unaweep Canyon, Colorado. This route offers an accessible introduction to climbing in the Grand Junction area, with around 80 feet of vertical granite peppered by hand-drilled bolts, giving the experience a rugged, handcrafted feel. From the first clip, the climb demands both care and confidence — the landing zone is unforgiving, with sharp cactus and pointed rock fins waiting below if you miss your footing. Climbers who prefer a safer start can opt to stick clip the opening bolt, easing into the climb with greater assurance.

The route threads its way along a line close to that of the nearby First First, veering slightly right and following a clear bolt sequence that guides every move. While the technical moves remain moderate and attainable, Black Bunny Rabbit keeps your focus with rock features that challenge foot placement and balance. The sun-drenched granite gleams under Colorado’s high desert sky, the rough texture biting into your fingertips and shoes as you ascend. Cactus plants flank the base, their spines a silent reminder to approach with care, blending natural beauty with a practical hazard.

The area itself feels quiet, removed from the bustle of busier crags, offering a sense of solitude amidst expansive views. Your approach follows a well-worn trail, its dry, rocky character mirroring the austerity of the surrounding landscape. Preparation here means sturdy footwear for the scramble, enough water to handle the dry air, and timed climbs to avoid the harshest sun in the early afternoon.

With 8 bolts protecting the route, gear reliability is solid. The hand-drilled nature of these bolts adds character and a slight uncertainty that keeps the climb grounded in its wild setting. It's a climb where focus matters: misreading the bolt line or drifting left can lead to tricky situations, especially near the start. For beginners stepping up into sport climbing or seasoned climbers looking for a refreshing, no-frills line, Black Bunny Rabbit offers a satisfying, direct encounter with Unaweep’s granite cliffs.

Plan for a single pitch up this crisp, textured wall, and savor the clear air and quiet views that frame your experience. Descending is straightforward, but take your time navigating the base’s prickly vegetation on your way back down. Black Bunny Rabbit isn’t just a climb — it’s a brief, focused connection to the rugged pulse of Colorado’s high desert climbing scene.

Climber Safety

Be extremely cautious at the start: the landing offers little forgiveness with cactus spines and jagged rock. Also, ensure you don’t wander too far left of the bolt line to avoid unsafe terrain.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Stick clip the first bolt to avoid a dangerous fall onto cactus or sharp rock below.

Stay focused on the bolt line and avoid drifting left; the route stays right throughout.

Wear durable climbing shoes with good edging due to the rough granite texture.

Plan your climb for morning or late afternoon to avoid the hottest part of the day.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating on Black Bunny Rabbit feels on point but leans into its sustained nature rather than technical difficulty. While the moves themselves are moderate, the tricky start and precise bolt line require attention, making it a climb that rewards steady focus rather than brute strength. Compared to nearby First First, it feels a bit more direct and no-nonsense, providing a straightforward but gritty sport challenge.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with 8 bolts, most of them carefully hand-drilled before a power drill became available. Stick clipping is recommended at the start to manage the risky landing zone.

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Tags

hand-drilled bolts
granite
single pitch
sharp cactus
dry approach