"A crisp trad line that challenges with thin protection along a clean arete, ending in a slabby finish. Black Bra Route demands precise gear placement and smooth movement, set against the raw beauty of Colorado’s 10 Mile Canyon."
Rising sharply from the rugged contours of The Dome in Colorado’s 10 Mile Canyon, the Black Bra Route—also known as Arete Direct—offers a single-pitch trad climb that balances straightforward movement with technical finesse. This line threads a clean, exposed arete that gradually eases into a slabby finish, inviting climbers to engage with rock that demands thoughtful gear placement and steady footwork. The route begins at the base of a chimney, an inviting funnel that guides you directly to the arete’s lip. From there, the climb unfolds with a compelling rhythm: thin protection zones punctuate a steady vertical gain, requiring a collection of small to medium cams and a careful hand for micro nuts and RPs to protect the climb safely.
Despite its modest length—just under 200 feet—the Black Bra Route draws attention for the quality of its rock and the subtle challenge of managing gear on thinner features. The arete itself acts as both a tactile guide and a natural ridge to lean into, where balance and precise foot placements become essential. Above, the slabby finish rewards patience and technique, demanding a smooth, controlled pace to reach the upper anchors.
The approach to the route is accessible and direct, making it a solid choice for climbers keen to experience 10 Mile Canyon’s quiet intensity without a long haul. A 60-meter rope is ideal here, giving enough length for the ascent in one pitch and a straightforward rappel descent via fixed anchors placed conveniently about 50 feet below the top. Those planning their descent should take note of two rappels to return efficiently and safely.
This climb is a practical adventure: you can feel the rock’s history beneath your hands while honing your ability to manage trickier gear placements. The route's PG13 rating hints at sections where a fall could have consequences, particularly on the thinner protection, so conservative climbers will want to stay alert and confident with their rack.
For anyone drawn to trad routes that reward precision over power, Black Bra Route is an engaging option. It merges the sweeping mountain scenery of Colorado with focused, technical climbing that doesn’t overstay its welcome. The area’s quiet atmosphere supports reflection between moves, alongside crisp mountain air and stunning canyon views that remind you why trad climbing remains an art as much as a sport.
Watch your placements on the thinner gear sections—some small cams can feel marginal in the natural seam. The rappel requires two stations and fixed anchors; double check your anchors and rope length before descending. Rock quality is solid but remains weathered, so test holds carefully.
Use a 60m rope for both the climb and two-step rappel descent.
Focus on precise gear placements along the thin protection zones to stay safe.
Approach is short and straightforward—plan for about 15-20 minutes from the parking area.
Anchor fixed 50 feet below the true top allows for a convenient rappel if needed.
Bring a rack loaded with small to medium cams complemented by numerous small nuts and RPs to protect the thinner sections. A 60-meter single rope is sufficient for the ascent and the rappel descent.
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