Tucked away in the heart of Colorado's 10 Mile Canyon, The Shire offers climbers a rare and rewarding experience marked by solitude and subtly challenging routes. Unlike the expansive slabs that characterize much of 10 Mile, here the climbing walls stand more vertical and boast an array of features that demand precise movement and attention. This intimate climbing area springs to life beneath the protective canopy of towering old growth spruce trees, which shield the routes from the harsh sun and create a cool, shaded retreat. When you arrive, it’s clear this spot isn't crowded – expect an almost untouched feel with holds glistening in their natural state, unmarked by chalk but potentially fragile, making a helmet indispensable.

The geology here rewards climbers with solid rock that invites a confident but cautious approach. The climbs stretch up to roughly 50 feet in length, a perfect scale for single-pitch sport routes that whip you up and down with satisfying variety. Highlights include routes like Mainstreet, a classic rated 5.10a that holds a commendable reputation earned through consistent quality and a balanced challenge. Other routes such as Ants On A Log and ALBOE sit comfortably in the 5.10 range, offering technical moves on bolt-protected faces that demand focus but provide fun, rewarding sequences.

Accessing The Shire is part of the adventure, bestowing a needed sense of remoteness. The approach starts just after the West Frisco exit on I-70, where the remains of the Excelsior Mine provide a striking landmark. Parking near the tailings sets the stage for a trek westward at their base, where you’ll hunt for a miner’s trail partially hidden beneath the forest undergrowth. This path switchbacks with a measured rhythm up the hillside before easing off into a more direct climb at its upper reaches. Wayfinding here requires care—cairns mark the route, but you should be prepared for some bushwhacking and scrambling through sections where mine cave-ins have rendered the trail less distinct. Allocating around 15 minutes to reach the cliffs is wise, leaving you ample time to mentally prepare for the rock ahead.

The elevation hovers around 9,333 feet, so climbers should be mindful of altitude effects and plan hydration accordingly. Weather in this region swings through clear, cool summers and brisk winters, with prime climbing stretching through late spring to early fall when the shade from the spruce offers refreshing relief from the sun. The shaded walls mean mornings and late afternoons are often the most pleasant climbing windows.

Safety here is paramount. The quiet nature of The Shire means fewer climbers disturb the routes by chalking or frequent ascents, so holds may feel fragile and occasionally break. Helmets are strongly recommended, especially to protect against loose rock on the approach and on the climbs themselves. Also, the trail condition can be tricky in spots, so good footwear and careful route-finding are essential.

In terms of protection, all routes are bolted, offering a straightforward sport climb experience. Still, because this is a more hidden location where the rock can vary locally, bring gear you trust and stay attentive to any subtle shifts in rock quality. The environment promises a clean, natural setting without the clutter of heavy traffic or excessive chalk marks, inviting climbers to test themselves in a raw mountain setting.

After topping out, the descent is simple—walk down the forested hill carefully back to the tailings area, retracing your steps along the less maintained trail. Take your time navigating the terrain to avoid slips or unintentional off-route scrambles.

For those seeking a climbing outing that balances accessibility with a sense of wilderness, The Shire is a compelling destination. The combination of vertical terrain, shaded protection beneath ancient spruces, and nuanced trail access offers a unique slice of Colorado climbing far removed from crowded crags. Prepare well, respect the fragile holds, and you’ll find routes that reward your efforts with quiet satisfaction and the pleasure of climbing in a truly protected and peaceful setting.