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Bird Dog: Finger Crack Traverse at Whiskey Rocks West

Denver, Colorado United States
finger crack
traverse
small gear
granite
technical
short climb
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bird Dog
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bird Dog offers a punchy 40-foot finger crack traverse that demands precise technique and careful gear placement. Situated in Whiskey Rocks West, this 5.9 trad route challenges climbers with gritty rock and a tricky start, before opening into a more secure and enjoyable finish."

Bird Dog: Finger Crack Traverse at Whiskey Rocks West

Bird Dog is a compact but engaging trad climb tucked into the rugged terrain of Whiskey Rocks West, a lesser-known corner of the South Platte region in Colorado. The route stretches a concise 40 feet along a distinctive right-angling finger crack, inviting climbers to test their technical edge in a setting that balances challenge and charm. Your journey begins by threading a narrow water streak, where the rock is damp and gritty under your fingertips, demanding careful movement and concentration. As you move beyond a loose flake, the climb opens up with more reliable placements and better holds, making the upper section notably more satisfying and secure to ascend. Protection options start out limited—the initial section requires patience with smaller gear—but quickly improve once you pass the tricky entrance. Expect to place gear up to a #1 camalot, favoring small to medium sizes for safe anchor building.

The approach through Whiskey Rocks West brings you into a rugged landscape speckled with spires and slabs, where the rocky outcrops press forward against a backdrop of pine-scented air and open sky. The granite here is coarse and worn by years of weather, offering solid friction but also demanding respect as some features can hold loose flakes or sandy patches at lower levels. Although the climb’s short length might suggest a quick tick, Bird Dog challenges you to focus on precise footwork and controlled hand jams to navigate the finger crack’s shifting angles. The route’s 5.9 rating hits a sweet spot—it doesn’t overpower, but it rewards those with a steady head and clean technique.

Cleaning the climb can have its frustrations, thanks to tricky placements and the route’s traverse nature, which tends to pull on gear more than a straightforward line. Lead climbers will find the endeavor satisfying, but seconding the pitch requires care to avoid gear hang-ups or awkward swings. The route’s exposure is moderate, and it benefits from an early morning start to catch the climb in cooler shade before the sun moves westward and heats the slab below.

For those planning a trip to Bird Dog, proper footwear with solid edging ability is essential on the slab sections, while a rack focused on small cams and nuts will keep your protection tight. Given variable rock conditions near the bottom, patience and a cautious approach pay dividends. The area sees light traffic, meaning the rock maintains a cleaner feel than more popular crags nearby. Proximity to Goose Creek and Molly Gulch Campground offers a convenient base, allowing for quick access and a comfortable spot to rest after your ascent.

Whether you’re stepping up from easier cracks or aiming to sharpen finger jam skills on moderate trad terrain, Bird Dog offers a short, lively climb that blends technique with a bit of grit. It’s a perfect option for climbers looking to expand their Southern Platte repertoire with a route that packs character into a compact footprint. Approach with the right gear, stay attentive to fragile rock near the lower water streak, and you’ll find a rewarding finger crack climb that’s well worth the trip.

Climber Safety

Take care on the initial water streak section—rock can be damp and slightly loose near the flake. Cleaning the climb is tricky because the traverse exerts side pulls on gear, increasing risk of gear drag or dislodging. Double-check placements and avoid swinging on uncertain protection.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to climb in morning shade before midday sun heats the slab.

Wear shoes with good edging for the coarse granite slab sections.

Be prepared for a challenging clean due to traverse-induced gear hang-ups.

Approach via Goose Creek Campground for the quickest access and parking.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here feels accurate but leans toward the more technical side due to the finger crack traversal and awkward protection low on the route. The crux sits near the flake where the climb shifts into better holds, requiring precise footwork and confident jamming. Compared to other Southern Platte climbs of similar grade, Bird Dog demands steady hands and a willingness to manage gear placements in tight spots.

Gear Requirements

Bring a trad rack emphasizing small cams up to #1 Camalot, along with nuts for secure placements. Expect tricky spots low on the climb with limited gear options and a need for precise placements to protect the traverse.

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Tags

finger crack
traverse
small gear
granite
technical
short climb