"Bighorn at Devil's Kitchen compresses solid crack climbing into a brief, intense pitch. Tackle fingers to offwidth on sandstone that carries desert grit, with a few tricks to protect and descend. Ideal for trad climbers ready to sharpen their jams in a rugged Colorado setting."
Bighorn crack at Devil's Kitchen offers a raw, hands-on trad climb that condenses classic crack climbing into a brief but engaging experience. Located within the rugged Colorado National Monument near Grand Junction, this route asks climbers to navigate a shifting crack system that starts tight and delicate, demanding finger and hand jams before widening into an offwidth that leads you directly to the summit. The rock here carries the weathered texture of the high desert, with some sections slightly overgrown or dusty, reflecting the route's infrequent visitation.
The approach to Devil's Kitchen is straightforward but requires attention—roughly a short hike from the parking area leads through exposed sandstone formations warmed by the sun, punctuated by the faint rustle of desert scrub and the call of distant ravens. The wall catches the afternoon light, emphasizing the cracks and pockets you’ll use to move upward. At 45 feet tall, Bighorn is a single-pitch route, making it a perfect option for climbers looking to hone crack skills in an approachable length without committing to a long multi-pitch climb.
Protection is standard trad rack, but the key piece is a large slung horn with a quicklink at the top—bolted anchors are absent, so come prepared for a confident clip or an easy downclimb through a chimney rated at easy 5th class if you prefer to avoid rappelling. The chimney itself is forgiving, offering natural holds and stable rock for descent. Be ready to manage dust and some low-hanging plants that remind you this line isn’t groomed for crowds but thrives on its natural, slightly wild character.
The route’s 5.9 rating is well-earned, blending technical hand jams with a short offwidth section that feels exposed but is not overwhelming—offering a physical and mental test to crack climbers of various experience levels. The rock’s texture provides good friction, but climbers should expect a modest challenge when transitioning between jams and hands to offwidth technique. The natural surroundings bring in the desert’s warmth, with strong sunlight during midday, making early morning or late afternoon ideal to climb comfortably.
Climbers venturing to Bighorn will find a quiet corner of Colorado National Monument where the landscape stretches wide and open, with sandstone walls carved by wind and time. The fall offers cooler temperatures, making the grip and exposure more enjoyable, while summer demands hydration and sun protection in the high desert setting.
This route is well-suited for trad climbers looking to deepen their crack climbing skills in a short but demanding package. With solid protection and a straightforward approach, Bighorn invites climbers to take a hands-on journey into the heart of Colorado’s sandstone country. While it might not be the cleanest or most polished crack climb in the region, it makes up for it in character and the authentic feel of an untraveled line, where surface grit and nature’s subtle obstacles add to the challenge rather than diminish it.
The rock can be slightly dusty and some sections are a bit dirty, so keep an eye on your foot placements and hand jams. The top anchor requires careful clipping or an easy chimney downclimb, so be sure to plan your descent carefully and check protection placements before committing.
Expect a short but technical climb with tricky jam transitions.
Early morning or late afternoon climbs avoid harsh midday sun.
Hydrate well and bring sun protection for the exposed desert approach.
Familiarize yourself with placing protection in sandstone cracks to maximize safety.
Bring a standard trad rack emphasizing cams that fit finger to offwidth sizes. A large slung horn near the top with a quicklink provides reliable anchor options. Being prepared for some dusty holds will help maintain grip.
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