Beyer 5: A Compact Challenge on Unaweep Granite

Grand Junction, Colorado United States
low angle
granite
trad
sport
single pitch
crux at bolts
moderate protection
Unaweep Canyon
Grand Junction
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Beyer 5
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Beyer 5 blends smooth, low-angle granite with thoughtful gear placements just outside Grand Junction. This single-pitch climb offers a measured challenge where steady technique and careful protection keep the experience focused and rewarding."

Beyer 5: A Compact Challenge on Unaweep Granite

Beyer 5 offers an approachable yet subtly demanding experience on the smooth Unaweep granite walls, just outside Grand Junction, Colorado. This single-pitch route presents climbers with about 70 feet of low-angle climbing interspersed with strategic protection placements, blending trad gear and fixed bolts to keep things interesting. The climb meanders over gentle, wavy granite, with the main challenge centered around the second bolt, where a short move requires focus despite the relaxed angle of the rock.

Starting at the Access Fund Trailhead in Zone 1 of Beyer's Walls, this route invites climbers to engage with an open granite face characterized by moderate features and one right-angling crack that serves as a natural gear placement. As you ascend, the calm rhythm of the climb is occasionally punctuated by the careful search for solid pro, keeping you attentive without overwhelming. The second bolt, perched approximately 20 feet from your last gear, marks the crux where a well-placed cam must be secured before making a precise move up and right.

The granite here feels alive: its rolling surface guides your hands and feet with subtle ridges and shallow edges that invite steady progress rather than maximal effort. A light breeze often sweeps through the canyon, carrying the faint sound of rustling leaves and distant bird calls, enhancing the connection between climber and landscape. While the grade reads 5.8-, it carries an R rating, signaling the need for cautious gear placement and respect for the route’s less protected sections.

Preparation is straightforward but important. A rack equipped with quickdraws alongside a small to medium selection of cams—especially a 0.4 cam—is crucial for safe passage. The anchor sits on a small ledge, with a sturdy tree offering a reliable rappel station via a sling and rap ring. This descent is quick but demands attention, as the landing area tightens and the anchor trees can be hard to spot from below.

Beyer 5 is well-suited for climbers looking to build confidence on granite with a mix of trad and sport protection, making it a practical stop for anyone exploring the wider Unaweep Canyon walls. It’s close to Grand Junction, supporting day trips without long approaches, and its moderate length pairs nicely with other routes nearby. Timing your climb in the early morning or late afternoon keeps you out of the strongest sun, while spring through fall offers the best conditions, avoiding icy or wet rock.

This route might not boast flashy moves or towering height, but its understated challenge and solid setting make it a valuable addition to the local climbing itinerary. Beyer 5 rewards steady pacing, attentive gear management, and an eye for subtle holds, making it perfect for those wanting to sharpen trad skills in a comfortable yet engaging setting.

Climber Safety

The protection gap near the crux requires careful placement of a 0.4 cam before committing. The rappel anchor is anchored on a single tree; make sure slings and rings are in good condition before descending. Watch for loose rock near the ledge and approach with care to avoid trip hazards.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid the afternoon heat on exposed granite.

Double-check your anchor slings and rap ring for solid rappelling.

Wear sticky-soled shoes for better grip on the wavy granite surfaces.

Bring ample water—there’s no natural hydration source near the trailhead.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8- R
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.8-, the R designation warns of sparse protection past the second bolt, nudging climbers to be deliberate with gear placements. The moves themselves are quite manageable, but the margin for error tightens the experience. Compared to other nearby moderate routes, Beyer 5 feels more serious due to this commitment factor.

Gear Requirements

Bring quickdraws alongside a 0.4 cam for optimal protection. Expect to place gear in the right-angling crack before the crux near the second bolt. Rappel off a tree using a sling and rap ring at the ledge.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Beyer 5 and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

low angle
granite
trad
sport
single pitch
crux at bolts
moderate protection
Unaweep Canyon
Grand Junction