HomeClimbingBetter Than Love

Better Than Love on Hallett Peak: A Classic Alpine Trad Experience

Estes Park, Colorado United States
alpine
trad
multi-pitch
crack climbing
exposed
route-finding
high altitude
Length: ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
8
Location
Better Than Love
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Better Than Love is an eight-pitch alpine trad route on Hallett Peak that blends technical crack climbing with exposed face moves. Offering a quieter alternative to nearby classics, it challenges climbers with steady protection needs, route-finding nuances, and genuine alpine atmosphere."

Better Than Love on Hallett Peak: A Classic Alpine Trad Experience

Better Than Love offers eight pitches of classic alpine trad climbing on Hallett Peak, high in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park. This route delivers a rugged mix of technical cracks, stemming sections, and exposed face climbing that commands respect without overwhelming. Starting from the shared base with the well-known Love Route and Culp-Bossier, the climb strikes out left early, leading to a grassy ledge beneath a series of right-facing dihedrals that beckon you upward. The opening pitches are a measured warm-up with 5.6 to 5.8 terrain, punctuated by clean stemming and cracks framed by the sheer granite walls.

Pitch two stands out with a compelling blend of moves on the face, avoiding the roof but requiring careful footwork and precise hand jams. As you move higher, the route reveals its character—an interplay of solid rock and occasional loose flakes that keeps you alert, especially on pitch three, where a cautious detour around a dubious flake offers a safer path. The rock here is alpine granite with textured features that reward steady hands and a thoughtful approach.

Midway through, a massive pillar rises about 100 feet, and climbing its left edge on pitch five is a highlight—a sustained, hands-on sequence that feels steady but demands careful placement. The crack systems and stemming corners here have a distinct personality, pushing you to read the rock as much as to rely on strength. Protection is well thought out: a complete set of nuts and RPs, supplemented by TCUs and cams up to #4 Friends, which provide confidence on the trickier sections.

The upper pitches bring both exposure and route-finding challenges. Pitch seven is the mental crux with steep, mostly unprotected 5.7+ climbing heading to a prominent roof. Trust in your skills over hesitation, as this section tests commitment more than pure difficulty. From there, the left-leaning corners and faces guide you toward the summit, a rewarding spot with alpine air that sharpens the senses and offers sweeping views of Rocky Mountain peaks and wild valleys below.

When your hands tire and your body calls for rest, the descent offers options. After topping out, head east along a narrow ridge to a bolted rappel station that drops into easier scrambling ledges and scree gullies. The 60-meter rope suffices for a single rappel down to accessible terrain, avoiding longer approaches or complicated exits. The entire climb, while demanding respect for its alpine environment and variable rock quality, remains a compelling alternative to heavily trafficked routes nearby.

Better Than Love is ideal for climbers who appreciate technical crack systems, value meticulous gear placement, and seek a varied, exposed alpine climb with solid protection strategies. Prepare for changing weather, bring sturdy footwear compatible with alpine scree, and set off with an early start to savor the full day. This route balances commitment and accessibility, offering a memorable experience in one of Colorado’s iconic mountain settings.

Climber Safety

Be vigilant about loose rock on pitch three where a sizable flake can unpredictably shift; avoid direct passage here as rerouting left is safer. Additionally, the alpine environment subjects the route to sudden weather changes—carry layered clothing and watch the forecast closely. The descent rappel relies on a few older bolts, so inspect anchors carefully and be ready for alternative retreat methods if needed.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches8
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon storms typical of the Rockies.

Footwear with sticky rubber and solid edging ability will help on the granite slabs.

Double-check anchors on the descent rappel, as some bolts could benefit from updating.

Be prepared for fluctuating alpine temperatures, especially above treeline.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:With a 5.8 R rating, Better Than Love presents moderately challenging climbing combined with runout sections that increase the seriousness. While the moves rarely exceed 5.8, the protection can be sparse at times, particularly near the roof on pitch seven, making this route feel stiffer than its numerical grade. Compared to nearby Culp-Bossier, it offers a similarly engaging sequence with slightly more route-finding involved.

Gear Requirements

Expect to bring a full trad rack including one set each of RPs and nuts, along with TCUs and cams up to #4 Friend for secure placements on varied crack widths and tricky protection spots.

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Tags

alpine
trad
multi-pitch
crack climbing
exposed
route-finding
high altitude