Behind Breakfast Crags Climbing: Quiet South-Facing Lines in Indian Wells

Indian Wells, CA, California
north facing
bolted
loose approach
desert terrain
sport climbing
single pitch
moderate routes
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Indian Wells Climbing Area
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Behind Breakfast Crags offers a quiet, approachable climbing area in Indian Wells with north-facing bolted lines and solid rock. Perfect for those seeking a less crowded spot near the Breakfast Crags, this area features straightforward routes like the classic Eggshell Dihedral (5.7) and a sandy gully approach that rewards careful footwork."

Behind Breakfast Crags Climbing: Quiet South-Facing Lines in Indian Wells

Behind Breakfast Crags offers a lesser-known but rewarding climbing experience just south of the popular Breakfast Crags in California’s Indian Wells area. This collection of bolted routes sits at an elevation near 3,941 feet, presenting climbers with clean north-facing walls protected by solid rock. While the climbing here is relatively limited in route count, the location promises potential for future development and a quieter alternative to the busier nearby crags.

Approaching Behind Breakfast Crags requires a bit of navigation — the easiest access follows the loose, sandy gully that leads upward past the top of Green Eggs and Ham and Pancake Flakes. Climbers looking to avoid the unstable descent can also choose an alternate approach: crossing the desert terrain while staying at a higher elevation, bypassing the gully dropoff where the footing becomes challenging. Parking nearby makes this a convenient half-day outing for those focused on sport climbing.

The rock quality holds up well across the routes here; the north-facing orientation provides comfortable shade in the warmer months, making spring and fall ideal for visits. Winter can also deliver moderate temperatures, but checking local conditions is advised due to occasional desert variability. With only a handful of bolted lines currently available, the area remains undisturbed enough to attract climbers looking to explore fresh lines or simply enjoy a peaceful setting.

One standout classic climb in the zone is Eggshell Dihedral, rated 5.7 and known for its moderate challenge and solid rock. This route earns a loyal following for those who appreciate steady, enjoyable climbing without the complications of overly technical moves or polished surfaces. Beyond this, the area awaits further route development driven by attentive climbers respecting the environment and natural rock.

For visiting climbers, bringing a standard sport rack suffices, though careful foot placement is critical on the approach due to loose and sandy terrain. Protection quality is reliable on the installed bolts, but standard caution is necessary when negotiating the gully to the climbs. Descending from the climbs typically involves retracing your steps down the gully or carefully navigating back to the high desert approach route.

Set against the broader backdrop of the Indian Wells region, Behind Breakfast Crags stands as a quietly promising destination. Its proximity to more crowded areas provides escape for those seeking solitude and straightforward sport lines with a southern California desert aesthetic. The views shift across open desert expanses with occasional brush and low vegetation, complementing the climbing with a sense of wide-open space and quiet focus.

In sum, Behind Breakfast Crags is a practical choice for climbers who want a manageable approach, solid rock quality, and a small collection of routes to sharpen their skills while soaking in the raw desert environment. It’s a pocket of calm within striking distance of one of the region’s more popular crags, waiting for those who appreciate climbing that rewards patience and respect for the landscape.

Climber Safety

The loose and sandy gully on the approach can be unstable and slippery—move deliberately and consider footwear with good traction. Also, always check for weather conditions since desert temperatures can vary widely.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach from the parking area by staying on higher ground and avoid dropping into the loose sandy gully if possible.

Bring sturdy shoes for the loose and sandy terrain on the approach to reduce slipping risk.

Climb during spring or fall for cooler conditions on the north-facing walls.

Be prepared to downclimb or retrace your steps on the loose gully for descent after climbing.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The climbs here, exemplified by Eggshell Dihedral at 5.7, tend to offer moderate difficulty that feels approachable for intermediate climbers. The area's routes don't push into harder grades but provide solid, well-protected lines with quality rock. These climbs are unlikely to be sandbagged and offer a straightforward climbing experience similar to other sport venues in Indian Wells but with fewer crowds.

Gear Requirements

Standard sport climbing rack with quickdraws for bolted routes. Approach involves a loose, sandy gully requiring careful footing. No specialized gear required beyond typical sport setups.

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Tags

north facing
bolted
loose approach
desert terrain
sport climbing
single pitch
moderate routes