"Beam Me Up, Scotty is a well-protected, single-pitch trad climb on Helen's Dome’s west face. This route combines steady crack climbing with strategic gear placements and offers climbers a straightforward but rewarding ascent framed by Colorado’s striking granite terrain."
Rising boldly from the rugged terrain of Helen's Dome, Beam Me Up, Scotty stakes its claim as a compelling trad route that blends solid crack climbing with measured exposure. Located on the main west face—where sunlight shifts the granite’s color in early morning—this route offers a raw, tactile encounter with Colorado’s high-country walls. Starting by linking into the first half of the nearby Fool’s Gold route, you’ll find yourself navigating a shallow, right-leaning dihedral that tests finger strength and encourages steady, controlled movement. The climb quickly breaks into a mini headwall, where a sequence of crack jugs presents both protection opportunities and physical challenges, demanding precision in gear placement and confident footwork.
Above this headwall, the rock stretches out into uninterrupted climbing—hands wedging into cracks, feet edging on the granite’s texture—while a series of bolt placements punctuate the route. These bolts grow sparser higher up, requiring climbers to lean on traditional gear skills and route finding to maintain safety. The two-bolt anchor near the top provides a reliable belay point, and from here, climbers face a choice: tackle the left-hand water groove with a lower difficulty and some runout, or push up the right-hand water groove, carrying a solid 5.9 rating and R protection warning. This fork encourages climbers to assess their comfort level and gear confidence before committing.
Approach to Beam Me Up, Scotty is straightforward, following marked paths through pine and aspen forests that cushion the effort to reach the base. The surrounding wilderness hums quietly, broken only by the whisper of the wind and rustle of leaves, creating a calm contrast to the vertical challenge ahead. The climb’s single 160-foot pitch allows for a compact experience, perfect for climbers who want a taste of classic Colorado granite without the commitment of longer multi-pitch routes.
Successful ascents demand thoughtful preparation: carry 8 to 10 quickdraws for the bolts, complemented by a light rack of stoppers and thin-hand cams to protect the crack sections effectively. Timing your climb to morning or early afternoon will help avoid the summer’s most intense heat, while sturdy footwear with precise edging capability is essential on the often-friction-dependent holds. Hydration is key—carry enough water for the approach and climb, as natural sources are scarce near the rock.
Beam Me Up, Scotty encapsulates the spirit of traditional climbing with a dose of adventurous exposure on a well-loved Colorado face. It invites climbers to engage fully with gear placement, movement, and decision-making, rewarding those who rise confidently into its granite embrace with a satisfying climb and memorable views from the top.
The upper section’s bolt spacing can catch climbers off guard; ensure protection between bolts is solid and avoid the right-hand finish if uncertain about runout climbs. Weather can change quickly—check forecasts and be prepared for afternoon winds or sudden temperature drops.
Start early in the day to avoid afternoon heat on the west-facing granite.
Trust your gear placements on the headwall—secure pro keeps the climb solid.
Choose your finish route carefully: left is easier but runout, right is harder with increased risk.
Hydration is limited nearby; bring enough water for the approach and climb.
Bring 8 to 10 quickdraws for bolted sections, plus a light rack of stoppers and thin-hand cams to protect the crack features.
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