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Battle With a Bush at Primo Wall in Clear Creek Canyon

Golden, Colorado United States
hand crack
overhang
loose rock
single pitch
vegetation
upper hand jams
fist crack
non bolted anchor
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Battle With a Bush
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Battle With a Bush offers a gritty, close-quarters crack climb on the rugged Primo Wall above Nomad’s Cave. This 40-foot single pitch challenges you with an overhanging hand crack that tapers to thin jams near the top, set against the wild backdrop of Clear Creek Canyon."

Battle With a Bush at Primo Wall in Clear Creek Canyon

Battle With a Bush reigns as a hidden—though rugged—jewel above Nomad's Cave in Clear Creek Canyon, just outside Golden, Colorado. This brisk 40-foot crack climb demands quiet focus and steady hands from the moment you step onto its steep face. A single pitch of moderate 5.9 difficulty, it offers crack enthusiasts a rewarding taste of tight hand jams slowly slimming to thin grips near the top. Vegetation clings stubbornly around the route, challenging you to wrestle past wayward branches that lend the climb a raw edge. Loose rock whispers caution with every step upward, signaling that this is a route still settling into its character, an honest battle between climber and nature.

Approaching Battle With a Bush is a venture in itself—expect a solid trek that tests your trail skills more than your patience, rewarding you with a line not overrun or polished by crowds. The crack starts as slightly larger hand jams, inviting you into a confident rhythm, before a fist-sized splitter veers right about three-quarters of the way up, demanding nimble adjustments and focused technique.

Protection calls for a careful rack: a #0.75 through #4 Camalots cover the stretch well, striking a balance between security and efficiency. Anchors aren’t bolted at the summit, but a solid setup is achievable with hand to fist-sized gear, allowing you to belay your partner safely. Bringing smaller nuts or cams for anchoring your belayer is highly recommended to ensure a stable setup on this loosely featured wall.

Descent requires attentiveness; rappelling via the nearby Mildage anchors is possible but demands caution due to wear and exposure. Alternatively, a downclimb around a large tree on the climber’s left leads to the trail—but you won’t be able to retrieve gear left at the base this way, so careful rope management and haul systems for your equipment are mandatory.

The climb’s setting on Primo Wall provides a rugged, raw backdrop with scenic views of Clear Creek Canyon’s volcanic rock and pine-streaked ridges. Mornings bring creeping sunlight that filters through sparse trees, warming the cooler stone, while afternoons heighten the challenge with strong sun and occasional wind gusts, making early starts the prudent choice.

Battle With a Bush is not suited for casual strolls up the face; it demands crack climbing know-how, mental grit, and preparedness for a somewhat wild, less-tamed stretch of Colorado’s climbing world. Yet, it stands as a compelling test piece for those chasing clean hand jams and a touch of adventure beyond the well-trodden routes. Stepping onto its textured holds, you’ll feel nature’s persistent pulse in every jam and push, carved into the canyon’s core.

Climber Safety

Loose rock and sparse vegetation create a hazard; test holds carefully and watch footing during the approach. The lack of fixed anchors calls for caution in building a reliable protection setup, and rappelling via nearby anchors requires an experienced touch.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the exposed wall.

Bring gear for a solid anchor; no fixed bolts at the top.

Be prepared for some loose rock and vegetation on the route.

Manage your rope carefully to haul gear up, as walk-off won’t return you to the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:This 5.9 climb presents an honest challenge with a slightly overhanging hand crack that narrows to thinner jams near the top, featuring a fist-sized offshoot. The grade feels accurate and solid here—not softened by fixed protection but persistent in technical demands. Compared to other Clear Creek Canyon climbs, Battle With a Bush lands as moderately stiff for the grade, especially with the loose rock and unpredictability of natural features.

Gear Requirements

A focused rack including 1 each of #0.75, #2, 2 #3, and 1 #4 Camalots covers the crack effectively. Smaller cams or nuts are needed to anchor your belayer as the top has no fixed bolts.

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Tags

hand crack
overhang
loose rock
single pitch
vegetation
upper hand jams
fist crack
non bolted anchor