"Banana Caliente on Skaha’s south face offers a compact, engaging 35-foot sport climb. Precision edges, a standout thumb undercling, and smooth layback sequences make this route a crisp technical challenge in British Columbia’s sunny southern crags."
Banana Caliente invites climbers to engage with the distinct texture and rhythm of Skaha’s southern crags, a standout experience for those who appreciate technical sport routes with thoughtful movement. This 35-foot single pitch offers an immediate taste of what makes Skaha a perennial favorite: crisp edges and balanced body work from start to finish. As you step onto the wall, your fingers find secure holds that demand precise foot placement and steady commitment. The initial bolts guard classic Skaha edges—sharp but reliable—setting the stage for a more nuanced sequence.
Midway into the climb, the route shifts character. You’ll encounter a prominent thumb undercling that tests your grip creativity and core tension. This move is as much about finesse as strength, compelling climbers to adjust their center of gravity while maintaining connection to the wall. After this engaging challenge, you’ll slide into a series of layback moves on positive edges. These moves reward climbers who like to feel the rock’s personality, as you lean outward yet remain locked in through controlled footwork.
The rock’s texture here has a clean grain that provides confidence underfoot, allowing for controlled rests between movements. The flow of the climb encourages a steady pace, with the protections placed to ensure mental ease rather than a forced rush. Four well-spaced bolts guard the pitch, balancing security with freedom, allowing climbers to focus on technique rather than gear management.
Situated on the south face of the Diamondback crag, Banana Caliente basks in sunlight for much of the day, making it a reliable pick even during cooler months. The approach is straightforward, cutting through open grassland before the rocky base, which promises a short transition without added complexity. The surrounding landscape, dotted with open vistas and gentle breezes, adds a refreshing backdrop to the workout.
For climbers ready to explore Skaha’s sport climbing scene beyond the heavily trafficked circuits, Banana Caliente offers a brief but engaging encounter. It’s a route that rewards attentive movement and delivers a rewarding sequence packed into a concise pitch. Preparation-wise, lightweight shoes with good edging capability are essential to maximize contact on the subtle features. Hydration is key, especially for summer ascents where exposure can heat the rock surface and air swiftly.
Whether you’re honing your 5.10c skills or looking for a solid warm-up to a longer day, Banana Caliente balances accessibility with enough detail to keep the climb compelling. The route encourages climbers to read the rock and trust their footwork, making each move purposeful and connected. With careful planning, this climb can be a memorable slice of British Columbia’s vibrant climbing scene.
While the route is well bolted with four solid bolts, foot slips on the initial edges can feel unforgiving due to their sharp profile. Climbers should take time to assess foothold placement early. The rock is stable but requires attention to clean footing and proper sequencing to avoid fatigue near the crux.
Aim to climb mid-morning or late afternoon to avoid peak sun exposure on the south face.
Wear shoes with precise edging capabilities to maintain grip on the subtle edges.
Bring plenty of water, especially during warm days, as the wall retains heat.
The approach from the base is short and straightforward; parking near the trailhead saves time.
Four bolts protect the route, spaced comfortably to encourage fluid movement and confidence without overshielding. No additional gear is necessary beyond standard sport climbing equipment.
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