"Bad Italian Mustache offers a demanding 19-pitch alpine experience combining trad, aid, and technical climbing in the rugged Bugaboos. Expect solid granite, challenging roofs, and a mix of free and aided terrain high above British Columbia’s wild peaks."
Bad Italian Mustache threads together a gripping mix of trad, aid, and alpine climbing across 19 pitches that push the boundaries of endurance and technique. Set in the remote, rugged heart of The Bugaboos, this route begins along the Bad Hair Day line before veering into the vertical drama of the Italian Pillar. The rock here holds firm through most of the ascent, inviting confident placements and dynamic moves. However, as you near the summit, the character shifts — lichen-covered slabs and fragile flakes test your judgment and footwork, demanding respect and caution. The climbing balances sustained technical sequences with well-earned rests beneath expansive roofs, offering moments to breathe in the surrounding peaks and wilderness.
Navigating the upper pitches can challenge even seasoned climbers, with a notable pendulum marking the borderline between a free ascent and aid-assisted progress. This move has deterred a clean send but might yield to a bold lead or a carefully positioned bolt. The route rewards patience and careful route-finding, especially as the final pitches flirt with loose rock and hidden hazards.
The Bugaboos demand more than skill—they ask for preparation. Double sets of camalots from 0.5 to 4, complemented by a full rack of Aliens and offset Aliens, provide essential protection to navigate tricky placements and roof sections. Stoppers and generous slings are indispensable for securing gear around irregular blocks and uncertain flakes. Two 60-meter ropes are standard for this multi-pitch climb, ensuring safe and efficient transitions along the long stretches.
This alpine adventure unfolds in a landscape that refuses to be tamed, with steep granite faces jutting sharply against the sky. The remoteness amplifies every sound — the crisp wind pushing through the chutes, your boots finding holds on brittle rock, the faint chatter of wildlife far below. Expect a demanding approach, and an even more demanding descent, as the altitude and exposure frame each pitch in unforgettable clarity.
Planning this ascent means timing your effort for clear weather windows and steady conditions. The route's west face orientation exposes it to afternoon sun but keeps the lower sections shaded and cool, ideal for early starts. Preparation extends beyond the rack: hydration, layered clothing, and solid footwear offer comfort and security amid shifting alpine elements. Respect for nature’s raw edges here isn’t just etiquette—it’s vital for a safe, successful climb.
Bad Italian Mustache offers a rugged alpine experience that few routes match: a thrilling, gritty climb through some of British Columbia's most dramatic cliffs. It’s a test of grit, strategy, and adaptability, sculpted by granite and steeped in the wild pulse of The Bugaboos. Whether you aim to free every move or embrace aid where needed, this route promises a genuine alpine challenge, rich with atmosphere and adventure.
The upper pitches feature lichen-covered slabs and loose flakes, requiring extra caution when placing protection or committing to moves. The route also includes runout sections, so secure placements and a well-planned rope strategy are critical. Approach and descent in variable conditions demand experience with alpine terrain navigation.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the west-facing sections.
Check weather forecasts carefully, as conditions can change rapidly in the Bugaboos.
Use stoppers strategically to protect tricky roof moves with limited gear placements.
Be prepared for loose flakes near the summit—test holds before committing.
Bring a double set of camalots from 0.5 to 4, a full rack of Aliens and offset Aliens, plenty of stoppers, numerous slings, and two 60-meter ropes to cover the extensive pitches and challenging roof sections.
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