HomeClimbingBad Bowl

Bad Bowl: A Classic 5.9- Trad and Sport Climb in Ouray, Colorado

Ouray, Colorado United States
trad
sport
single-pitch
moderate difficulty
pine-tree anchor
Ouray climbing
finger crack
Length: 55 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bad Bowl
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bad Bowl is the go-to route for climbers seeking a reliable 5.9- moderate climb blending sport bolts and traditional gear on Ouray’s celebrated walls. This single-pitch offers steady protection, inviting moves, and a natural anchor atop a giant pine."

Bad Bowl: A Classic 5.9- Trad and Sport Climb in Ouray, Colorado

Bad Bowl offers an inviting introduction to the rock climbing terrain near Ouray, Colorado. This accessible single-pitch route combines a blend of sport bolts and traditional gear, making it a versatile choice for climbers eyeing a confident yet engaging challenge. Anchored near a towering pine on the main wall of The Secret Stash sector, this climb welcomes adventurers with a reassuring start on five well-placed bolts. Moving leftward, the route shifts to an overlapping crack where finger- to hand-sized cams become essential, demanding precise placements and steady technique. Each move invites a tangible connection with the rock — your fingers slide into cracks that seem to breathe beneath your touch, while the surrounding scent of pine needles and dry stone fills the air.

Stretching upward about 55 feet, the climb rewards steady, mindful effort with a top-out secured by anchor slings tied around the sturdy tree. The rock here holds solid and clean, allowing climbers to trust their protection and focus on flow. The approach to the wall is straightforward, with a short hike from the Ouray town center through open, rocky terrain scattered with scrub pines. The clarity of the route and solid protection make it an excellent option for those transitioning between sport and trad styles or for anyone seeking the dependable 5.9 experience without excessive exposure.

Plan your ascent for morning or early afternoon when the sun casts soft light over the south-facing wall, warming the holds without inviting overheating. Footwear with sticky rubber will maximize purchase on the subtly textured faces, while a rack emphasizing small to medium cams and a handful of extendable runners will cover the protection needs perfectly. Hydration and sunscreen are advisable as the semi-arid climate can quickly sap energy.

Safety-wise, watch your footing as you transition from bolts to gear placements—the crack section requires a bit more commitment and care with placing cams. The pine at the top stands as a natural anchor point, but double-check all knots and slings before lowering. Descent is a straightforward rappel from the tree anchor, minimizing exposure to potential hazards on the return walk.

Bad Bowl is not just a climb, but a deliberate dance between tradition and sport climbing, peppered with crisp footholds and striking natural features. Its approachable challenge makes it a favorite among locals and visitors alike looking to savor a solid 5.9- route in Colorado’s rugged landscape.

Climber Safety

Though well-protected on bolts, the crack section demands confident and precise cam placements; stay attentive to your gear security. The pine anchor at the top is reliable but always double-check knots and slings before rappelling.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length55 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler morning temperatures on the south-facing wall.

Bring a rack focusing on small to medium cams alongside quickdraws for bolts.

Test all gear placements carefully when moving into the crack section.

Use sticky-soled climbing shoes to maximize grip on slightly textured rock.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating on Bad Bowl feels accurate with a slightly friendly edge—while the initial bolt-protected face is straightforward, the crux emerges in the overlap crack where gear placements and sustained moves gently raise the challenge. Compared to other 5.9 routes in Ouray, it lands as accessible yet satisfying, making it perfect for climbers blending sport and trad experience.

Gear Requirements

5 bolts protect the initial face section. After clipping, a transition to finger- to hand-sized cams guides the overlap crack. Anchors sling the large pine tree atop for rappel chaining.

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Tags

trad
sport
single-pitch
moderate difficulty
pine-tree anchor
Ouray climbing
finger crack