HomeClimbingBaby Sitter

Baby Sitter at Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge

Boulder, Colorado United States
trad
crack climb
traverse
short pitch
Eldorado Canyon
knotted slings
double rope
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Baby Sitter
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Baby Sitter offers a focused trad climbing experience on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge, combining a sustained traverse on clean granite with challenging gear placements. This short but engaging route gives climbers a practical alternative start near Strawberry Shortcut, perfect for those looking to sharpen crack skills in a striking setting."

Baby Sitter at Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge

Baby Sitter is a compact but engaging trad climb tucked into Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge, offering a crisp introduction to a less-traveled groove just to the right of Strawberry Shortcut’s corner. At a solid 50 feet, this single-pitch route moves along a clean stone face that quickly demands attention with a traverse of a horizontal crack twenty feet up. The climb flows from a right-side line, steering left through a series of obtuse, oblong pockets that challenge your gear placements and your patience. Those pockets don’t just add character—they require you to finesse thin, knotted slings for secure protection. This section demands respect, as gear can be difficult to place consistently, making steady movement essential to avoid pumping out prematurely.

The route concludes by linking into the right-facing corner of Strawberry Shortcut, earning a casual but welcome finish on a roomy ledge overlooking the canyon’s dynamic walls. While Baby Sitter is brief, it packs a sustained punch across its traverse; lingering too long to arrange gear can bring fatigue that catches some climbers off guard. It’s not a stand-alone destination so much as a strategic variation or warm-up, particularly for those eyeing the nearby Strawberry Shortcut or neighboring routes starting on Washington Irving ledge.

Protection calls for a smart selection of wires, small cams, and cleverly placed knotted slings. Double-rope technique is wise here, helping to manage rope drag and shielding your belayer from the sharper swings that the traverse might induce. The rock quality supports solid placements, but the trick lies in identifying the right pockets and corners that can accept your gear snugly.

Approaching Baby Sitter means stepping into one of Eldorado’s iconic outdoor gyms, where every hold and crack has a story shaped by countless hands. Despite its short length, the climb immerses you in the rattling energy of the canyon's steep walls and shifting light patterns. Morning or late afternoon climbs offer the best light balance, avoiding the harsh sun that can bake the stone in midday.

If you’re planning to punch up Baby Sitter, consider bringing extra slings and small protection gear. A moderate approach trail winds through forested pockets, requiring about 15 to 20 minutes from the main West Ridge parking area. The descent is straightforward with an easy walk-off down the ledge system that connects back to the West Ridge trail—a smooth exit that helps conserve energy for your next route.

Though this line is often overshadowed by Eldorado’s more famous climbs, Baby Sitter delivers a practical taste of the area’s technical granite cracks paired with manageable exposure. It invites climbers who appreciate a concise, move-focused challenge with a tangible payoff: solid gear placements, a sense of flow through the traverse, and a confident finish that rewards steady technique.

Climber Safety

Protection can be tricky to place consistently—especially on the traverse—so ensure your slings and cams are well-sized and securely seated. Maintaining steady movement is crucial to avoid exhaustion and reduce fall risks near the ledge. Approach with care to avoid loose rock along the trail, and use double ropes for safer belaying.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Bring a full rack of small cams and wires, plus plenty of slings for tricky placements.

Use double ropes to reduce drag during the traverse and improve follower safety.

Plan to climb efficiently—extended gear fiddling wastes energy on this short but sustained pitch.

Avoid midday sun; early morning or late afternoon provide more comfortable conditions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 rating reflects a climb where the sustained traverse and their gear challenges push your endurance without overwhelming technical difficulty. The grade feels fairly soft in terms of moves, but the pump builds quickly if you hesitate while placing protection. Compared to nearby routes like Strawberry Shortcut, Baby Sitter offers a more gear-intensive experience with a focus on tactical placements.

Gear Requirements

Wires, small cams, and knotted slings are essential for this route. Protection placements can be elusive along the traverse, especially within obtuse, oblong pockets where snug sling placements work best. Double rope technique is recommended to manage rope drag and secure the follower.

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Tags

trad
crack climb
traverse
short pitch
Eldorado Canyon
knotted slings
double rope